Rome from the Air

The photographer is unknown, but the shot is timeless. The Colosseum is a landmark for any city, but in Rome, history is everywhere. Just everywhere you look! Believers in Jesus Christ were once thrown to the lions in the arena, and gladiators battled to the death. It was a typical afternoon of "entertainment" for the wealthier citizens. Can you imagine? Well, today, Rome offers a diversion of pleasures, and you don't have to be rich to enjoy them. 

Rome - Eternally Yours

Rome- The Eternal City. What an amazing place! The famous sights, the sounds of fountains, music, the people; and the utterly magnificent flavors! But they pale in comparison to what is to come. The true eternal city as described by the beloved Apostle John in the book of Revelation: "Then I saw a new heaven and a new earth, for the first heaven and the first earth had passed away, and the sea was no more.  And I saw the holy city, new Jerusalem, coming down out of heaven from God, prepared as a bride adorned for her husband.  And I heard a loud voice from the throne saying, “Behold, the dwelling place of God is with man. He will dwell with them, and they will be his people, and God himself will be with them as their God.  He will wipe away every tear from their eyes, and death shall be no more, neither shall there be mourning, nor crying, nor pain anymore, for the former things have passed away.”

Can there be anything better than what is to come for all who have received the free gift of the forgiveness of sins through Jesus Christ? No, a thousand times, no.

 

An Amazing Story of a Powerful Woman

“I vas called to scrub und preach. I vas a borned preacher, und as I vas poor, I learned to vork. I do good vork, so people vants me; but if they haf me, they must haf the preach also. I scrub as unto the Lord, und preach to all in the house.”

A rare character of German descent, Sophie Lichtenfels lived in a one-room apartment only a block away from her beloved church, the Gospel Tabernacle in New York City. Born four days apart from A. B. Simpson, she loved and prayed for her pastor and gave of her meager income to support the missionary outreach he initiated. Although she was uneducated, she wanted desperately to be a missionary herself.

“For 12 years I prayed, ‘Oh, Father, make me a foreign mishener. I vant to go to foreign lands and preach.’ Und Father say, ‘Sophie, stop. Where were you borned?’ ‘Germany, Father.’ ‘Where are you now?’ ‘In America.’ ‘Well, ain’t you a foreign mishener already? And who lives on the floor above you?’ ‘A family of Svedes.’ ‘Und on the floor above them?’ ‘Why, some Svitzers.’ ‘Und in the rear house are Italians, und in a block away some Chinese. Do you think I will send you a thousand miles away to the foreigner und heathen, when you got them all around, und you nefer care enough about them to speak vit them about their soul?’

“I had some money saved up; und I learnt if I give a few dollars, I could send a boy to school in Japan. I do it, and now he is mishener among his own people. One day I hear about the people down South. ‘Vell,’ Father said, ‘Sophie, you can give to that sure’; but I vas stingy-like. I felt bad, und Father seemed to say, ‘All you haf I gif you, und you won’t gif a little back.’ I feel worser until I gif enough to send a woman to teach. Und now I haf a woman teaching for me down South. So I was in Japan, down South, und here in New York—preaching in three places, like as though I vas triplets!”

The original story by Patty McGarvey appears here.

The Most Beautiful Restaurant in Italy

When it comes to dining in Italy, the choices are astounding with the scale and scope of meals available. Sometimes, making a decision boils down to the old real estate adage: Location, location, location. Just where would you expect to find the most beautiful restaurant in Italy? Classic Rome? Along the canals of Venice? In the hillsides of Tuscany or the fashionable streets of Milan? No, the most beautiful and world famous restaurant in a country of top choices is to be found in Sorrento. Ristorante ‘o Parrucchiano la Favorita has to be seen to be truly understood.

An unassuming facade gives no hint of the luxuries and variety of dining rooms within. It's almost as if the owners did not want you to discover the place. Beginning in 1868, yes 1868, this place has been a feast for the eyes and the taste buds due to the vision of Antonino Ercolano, a seminarian with a passion for food- and an eye for beautiful settings in which to relax and enjoy it.

We stumbled upon this amazing spot almost by accident. By this point in our trip, we were preparing ourselves to fly to Paris. We had one full day left before departing in the morning, so we wrapped up our touring by wandering the stunning avenues of the town. (Our trip report begins here. Rome is all you are led to believe it is by the travel writers! It is now one of my favorite travel locations.)

Sticking our heads inside and walking into the first two dining rooms, we knew we had to return the next day for our last dinner in the country. Reservations in hand, we awaited what we knew would be a very memorable evening. And was it ever!

Two official photos- the one at the top of the article and this one directly above.

Walking past room after room, each with its own unique personality, we ascended multiple levels until we reached the Lemon Garden. Have you ever dined inside a greenhouse? It's a wonderful experience! The lush greenery that only God could create mixes with the elegance of glass and metal to create something fresh and charming. 

Below are a few more shots of the different dining rooms:

Now, you would expect it would be very, very expensive to dine here- and you'd be wrong.  Ristorante ‘o Parrucchiano la Favorita was actually quite reasonable, only about $5-10 more per person than some of our other meals. Surprising, right?

Now, would the food match the show stopping surroundings? Most definitely. (You can see their menu here.) 

OK- just one more official photo.

The birthplace of Cannelloni. Yes, this is where it all began. For me, I had my share of pasta and was in the mood for something entirely different. I chose the grilled tenderloin with its very flavorful pink pepper sauce. The roasted potatoes that came with it were mouth watering. Just delicious. But in all honesty, the standout dish was the simple tomato and mozzarella cheese salad. Sometimes, the most common dishes are taken to the next level, and this was the case. The vine tomatoes were grown in their own greenhouse, and they are famous in the region for their robust flavor. With the perfect glass of wine, this starter dish was light and refreshing. 

In a restaurant that seated- I think I remember our waiter saying 800 - it was a well loved location for wedding receptions and corporate parties. Yet, in spite of its size, the place felt warm and intimate. The service was also warm and friendly in true Italian style. When you toss in two of your best friends, my wife and I had one more perfect evening. God's hand of blessing felt evident that night. I can't explain it, but if you have that personal relationship with him through Jesus, you know exactly what I'm talking about. 

No, this wasn't a Dine or Ditch review like the other ones I've written for Disney locations, but I can say with all certainty and no reservation at all- Eat at this place if you ever get the chance!

(Photographs copyright Mark Taft.)

A Look Backwards at a Different Epcot Design from Harper Goff

The EPCOT that never was- and the Epcot that could have been. All we've got is the Epcot we have, but it wasn't always like this. There was once a great vision for Disney's second park in Florida. Leave it to those original Imagineers to come up with the best ideas... and here is one of the ones that's still great even if it din't make the cut.

So much detail to be seen here in this concept art.  Imagineer Harper Goff created this beautiful rendering of an EPCOT we will never see. If you click on this huge piece of concept art and look at it closely, you'll find the Netherlands and other unbuilt and interesting design choices. 

The B&W version.

This is a water based Epcot, if you'd like. And I do! It's even more of an urban style showcase than what was eventually built, focusing on classic, romantic architecture as the centerpiece of each pavilion. There's lots of side streets and nooks and crannies to explore. Certainly, the park would have a bustling but very intimate feel with its contrasts of open plazas and smaller courtyards and walkways to explore. 

The downside of it all? It is very Eurocentric- I can only see China and perhaps Japan in the upper right hand side of the park, perhaps that is Morocco slightly south of those. What I don't see is a U.S.A. pavilion. Do you? Aside from the Mexican temple, I do not see anything for South America or Africa- nor can I find Canada. Maybe you can. Front and center in the middle of the large lake, the classic architecture you'd come to expect looks seamlessly blended into more modern structures. 

The once planned Costa Rica pavilion would have been a nice fit!

Venezuela too!

Back to the water features. The great designers of the past always incorporated water features to give guests the impression of cooling off on the intense Florida sun. Instead of just World Showcase Lagoon, you find a main lake plus a smaller one that hosts a Romanesque amphitheater for an evening show. There's canals as well. No, not for Venice gondolas like Tokyo Disneysea but for a different kind of attraction. If you look closely, it's an early version of what looks like a World Cruise attraction where there looks to be show scenes built under the bridges. (If it sounds like what was planned for California's Westcot, it does to me as well! Look at that article including Tony Baxter's ideas here.)

The man was clearly inspired and quite successful at what he did, but I do not see much room for expansion aside from what could be easily removed structures on the West and East sides of the park. Perhaps this is why the design that was finally built was chosen. (I really do have to finish that "If I Built Epcot" article. I have one great idea that no one seems to have used yet... But I'm pretty sure another Epcot/Westcot will never come to be.)

A simple monorail station seems to sit at the entrance of his park with a large square plaza beyond the entrance gates. Inspired by or vaguely reminiscent of what is now found at the end of the Future World path to the lagoon. 

Would Harper's EPCOT work? Most likely it would. I'm sure there's a fascinating story to be told as to why this version of the park was bypassed in favor of what was built. Could it be the suits had plans for massive expansions and many more countries to be represented? History- and Disney's own documents and concept art seem to give us an affirmative answer. I just wish today's Imagineers had the guts to look backward before building something new in this park.
 
(Art copyright The Walt Disney Company.)

The End of Rome As We Know It: Day Three

The Eternal City earned its nickname- and we just love Rome! Like the two days before it, our next - and unfortunately last- day was filled with one adventure after another. Had we a bit more time, we would have explored the city at a more leisurely pace. We still had the southern part of the country to see (Amalfi Coast and Sorrento) as well as our last stop, several days in Paris.

The breakfast room- Beautiful!

After yet another wonderful breakfast at the Hotel Ponte Sisto, we decided to walk it off to our next destination, a tour through the breathtaking ruins the Palatine Hill. Next would be the Colosseum, right across the street. We walked, but if you wanted to take the Metro, the Termini station is literally at the base of all the tour operators. 

My measly photographs do not do it justice. 

If you are planning a trip to Rome, you'll definitely include these two destinations in your itinerary. If you are interested in history, you'll find the tours go by much too quickly. (Make sure you also do the Scavi Tour, which you must book way in advance. It's a very limited group that gets in and can be quite a pain to get, but it is the neatest thing we've ever done anywhere. Make sure you go through the official site here.)

Back to the ruins. Be prepared to do a lot of walking and on a variety of street conditions. It's often uphill. It's often rocky. It's often difficult. But it is always worth the effort! Buy the icy cold water offered by street vendors. You'll need it. Even in the early winter months, it is quite hot. I wish I'd remembered a hat.

With the area's rich, rich history and incredible views of the city, this is something you do not want to miss. Any of the tours will do the trick. Know that you will be placed into groups of about 20+ people. If you want to hear the narration, and you should, stay close to your guide. The place is buzzing with people. You'll hear dialects and languages from all over the world. 

As with every civilization, the more the people engaged in debauchery of all types, the quicker they went downhill. Then, another conquering people would come in and set up camp. You see opulence in full color on this tour. The wealth of the city's richest patrons is easy to see as the architecture and stonework make this a place like no other. When you add in the stunning views, it is just magnificent. The four of us may have taken more photographs in just this part of the city than anywhere else on our trip together. 

All this stone makes it very, very hot!

With the Colosseum across the street, this is the tourist hub of the city. The Vatican may hold more people in the wide open spaces of the outer courts, but this area of Rome feels absolutely crushing at times. Hold on to your children. They can easily get lost, and parents urgently looking for little ones will have a hard time finding them after a few minutes. These tours are not stroller friendly. Rome is great for families, but Pre-School aged kids will not be able to get anything out of these tours nor can they handle the decaying steps and difficult paths. 

The Colosseum is a marvel of engineering and a place of bloody spectacle. According to history, the local people would come by during their breaks from work to watch the epic battles which took place. Sometimes, it was man to man, gladiator to gladiator. Other times, it was a criminal (usually a Christian because Christianity was outlawed then) up against the lions. In either case, man to man or man to animal, it was a bloodbath. Once the faith of those who follow Jesus was recognized, eventually this cross (above) was placed inside the great arena. 

At both the Colosseum and Palatine Hill, the security is very tight. You will go through a complete search and check much like you would at any international airport. Be prepared for long waits. 

A little lunch, please.

Completing our tours, we were hot and hungry. There are plenty of places near these attractions, but we decided we would walk about one mile or so into some of the neighborhoods in town, away from the tourists. We found this worked to our advantage and the food and drink were usually better and the prices lower.

We stumbled into this busy little locals hangout. Like a lot of Europe these days, English language menus are offered when they have them. It seems Italians in particular like Americans, as everywhere we went we were warmly greeted, and everyone seemed to enjoy interacting with us. (Later, contrary to popular opinion, we also found this to be true in Paris.)

This just belongs here.

Our midday break with salads, pizzas, and a nice beverage created a terrific stop as well as a chance to rest and talk about the morning's adventures. Friendly, relaxed service and excellent food. Great friends and lots of laughs. What more could you want, right?

From the top of the Spanish Steps. 

Refreshed and reenergized, there was still much more to see. If you want to meet the world in a famous city, go to the public squares. One of the most popular in Rome is the location of the Spanish Steps. There is a small (for Rome!) fountain and lots of people to be found before you ascend to the top. The walk up was not quite as bad as we expected it to be, and the view from the top (shown above) is more than worth your time and trouble. It was late afternoon. The crowds were thick but friendly, and folks began lining up to watch the sunset and wait for the bars on the upper tier to open. One young couple was taking their wedding photos and the top of the steps, making the most of a very charming location.

The worldwide popularity of the television show Friends continues on.

Walking the streets of Rome is an experience in both caution and delight. When cars do go through here, you've got to pay attention. But when there's a stretch of empty road, you have a chance to see some unique shops and cafes and well known clothing chains. People watching is fun here! There's a collective mentality I find all through Europe where being out socializing is just the norm. It's pretty common to find folks just relaxing with coffee or gelato and letting the world pass by. The pace of life seems a bit slower and more focused on relationships. Being is important. One unique thing I did notice is that although there are cel phones, people don't seem glued to them as they do in the States.  

The was our last night in Rome. You'd think we'd go out to a fancy place for an elegant dinner, but you'd be wrong. Instead, we went home to our hotel later in the evening and sat at the garden patio under the stars. We each chose a different glass of wine and sat back, feeling the blessing of God to allow us this adventure together. 

Tomorrow, we'd take off for the southern parts of Italy, the Amalfi Coast and Sorrento. We couldn't wait, but then again, we could have stayed in Rome for a full week and not seen enough. I'd go back in an instant. There's nothing like it on this earth. 

(Photographs copyright Mark Taft.)

Dinner in Paris

A bottle of wine, good food, and great friends in one of my favorite vacation places: Paris, France. What could make for a better night? Nothing! The Lord has blessed us with all these things, and we are thankful for the trip together. No, I haven't forgotten about the trip reports. 

There's much more of Italy to share including a stop at the world's most beautiful restaurant. Then, afterwards, there's the City of Light. Without a single glance at Disneyland Paris, we still had an amazing time. 

I'm just so swamped with work that I cannot think straight. They will come, so I hope you'll be patient with me.

(Photograph copyright Mark Taft.)

The Beautiful Waters

Ah, the beautiful blue waters of Sorrento, Italy! I've been thinking and daydreaming of our Italian vacation. And then I realized I never finished up my trip report. Will I ever get to it? I guess at some point I will! But now I have a new job, and things are busier than they've been in awhile. That's a good thing!

(Photograph copyright Mark Taft.)

Happy Valentine's Day to My One True Love

When in Rome, do as the Romans do. In this case, it's Sorrento, but you get the idea. Happy Valentine's Day to my one true love! I'm so thankful you chose me. Life and the Lord have taken us on some great adventures. And there's more to come. 

This home high in the hills overlooks Mount Vesuvius and a sparkling bay. These steps leading into the home were a bit treacherous late at night, but during the day, it felt like walking into a secret garden. We'd soon discover the most beautiful restaurant on earth. More Italy trip report to come!

(Photograph copyright Mark Taft.)

Epcot's Kingdom of Morocco

The theme park wizards at Disney Imagineering are experts at creating environments that both charm with fantasy elements and entice with real world delights. For my dollar, this unique blend is no more evident than in Epcot's World Showcase. 

Of all the countries represented in this part of the park, the Kingdom of Morocco stands among the most fully realized. There is not a single  traditional attraction or even a beautiful travelogue film, but the shops and restaurants- and even the Aladdin meet and greet- are set in an environment so compelling, guests miss out on something so unique if they just pass by.

What will Disney do with this part of the park? Hard to say. Sadly, most likely in this season, Morocco is toward the bottom of their must-do list. Perhaps something great is in the works. Then this gem of World Showcase will rise to the guest respect level of France, Mexico, Norway, and Canada. Until then, the crowds will pass by and miss one of the park's hidden treasures.

(Concept art copyright The Walt Disney Company.)

A Quiet Corner in Italy

One of our favorite travel pleasures is to arrive someplace new and take a walk. Not just any walk, but one where we get lost and discover hidden alleyways and nooks and crannies. Sure, we see all the must-do sights we can, but there's something so real and charming about being off the beaten path. 

Here's one such example in Sorrento. It seems everywhere you go in Italy, you're stepping into a photographer's paradise. Sun washed walls and the rich hues of clay rooftops up against magnificent art in various forms of glass, bronze, and paint. Brightly painted flowers of rainbow colors spill across windows and onto cobblestone streets barely wider than a compact car. 

If you like this photo, check out the first two days of our recent trip to Italy and then Paris. More to come.

Day One- Italy Before France, Rome Before Paris

Day Two- The Best of Rome and The Coolest Thing I've Ever Done

(Photograph copyright Mark Taft.)

The Best of Rome- - and The Coolest Thing I've Ever Done

Day One of our trip to Rome, Amalfi Coast, and Paris was just about as good as it could be! We were excited for the next few days, but one small tour ended up being the best travel experience we've ever had. And I gotta say, because of God's goodness, the generosity of friends and family, and my part time gig as a tour guide, we've been blessed to do many, many amazing things. But this topped them all.

The full photo from above zoomed out to show just how huge this area is.

After meeting our friends for a delicious and leisurely breakfast in our hotel- Lavazza Coffee with hot milk is just wonderful- we headed off for our tour of the Vatican. 

Neither couple had been to Rome, but our friends did as much research as we did to prepare. Our friend the Professor happily stumbled upon something that very few folks know of or even care about: The Scavi Tour.

Just what exactly is this? A very limited tour where they receive only 250 people per day, approximately 12 people per group. You must be 15 years old, and the tours run only Monday through Friday and with shortened hours on Saturday. In order to qualify, you must first email them a passport scan. You'll go through an extensive security check before you are approved. Then you will know if you have been approved and for what date and time. 

But what exactly is this tour?

The Professor asks questions of the Swiss Guard officers at the entrance.

Everyone who goes to Rome for the first time must go to all the main landmarks, including Vatican City's magnificent St. Peter's Basilica. Just as they should. This tour, the Scavi Tour, goes under the basilica. What's there? An area called the Necropolis and the home to the tomb of St. Peter- which is directly below the grand dome everyone sees. The hour and a half excursion takes travelers somewhere in the neighborhood of 25 ft. below ground exploring what was once an above ground cemetery. This includes walking around ancient streets and houses now buried centuries later.  

Enter the tour here.

We arranged our entire tour of the our trip's tourist attractions to accommodate this particular tour. And we would advise anyone going to Rome to do the same. For all four of us, it was easily the highlight of our entire time in the region. 

Make sure you bring your passport with you. You will not be allowed in without it.

To find the tour entrance, walk toward the Dome, and then walk past it on the left side. Look for the Swiss Guard on the left. The uniforms make them easy to find. They will graciously point you to the Passport Control/Security entrance nearby. We tried talking to the local police to ask, but they appeared unable to direct us to the right location.

After going through security and a passport check (Vatican City is its own country. after all), we were escorted past the Swiss Guard to the tour office. Here, we were screened once more before being let into a walled off area. Dignitaries, some walked and some in vehicles, (and there were many) passed by us on their way to meetings and such.

The lobby area before descending below ground.

No photos allowed beyond this point.

Right on time, our tour guide came out to greet us. She was a local Italian woman with a doctorate in Christian Anthropology. Not only was she very knowledgeable, she was very likable, and her English was excellent. No question was too small or unimportant. After counting heads, the descent downstairs began. The halls became slimmer and slimmer as the lights got dimmer and the area colder.

The Necropolis. This is the official Scavi photo from their website.

I'll admit it took some time to get used to the chilly temperature below ground, the narrow and  dark precarious paths, and especially the thick security walls that closed behind us after entering each area. This is  definitely not for the claustrophobic! One woman in our group couldn't handle it all, and after entering the first darkened room way below the surface, she had to leave. Our very kind and understanding guide excused herself and accompanied the nervous woman back to the main lobby upstairs. We quietly waited for her to return. It was a bit eerie. 

One more official photo.

We had taken the underground aqueduct tour in Istanbul a year earlier. That certainly was incredible, but we were even more awestruck by this experience, the history, and stories told. The Necropolis (Greek for "City of the Dead") contains the Tomb of St. Peter, but that is to be seen toward the end. Before that, you walk among the pagan burial grounds and see a side of the era's life from a new perspective. (For the record, this is not like the famous catacombs of Paris, so you won't be viewing thousands of skulls.) 

The Professor found this photo on line after we all got home.

Based on historical data, Peter was martyred in 64 A.D. under the hand of Nero. The apostle Peter insisted he be crucified upside down, stating he was not worthy to be killed in the same manner as his Lord Jesus Christ. (Jesus himself prophesied Peter's death in the Bible's Book of John, Chapter 21.) Mourning but wise believers took Peter's body and hid it, fearing others would take it and destroy it.

For centuries, Christianity was outlawed, but that did not stop early followers of Jesus from hiding subtle references to God's Son in the paintings and other artwork as part of their families resting place. This included Peter and includes references to where he was buried in a manner that could only be described as ancient graffiti. All this is pointed out on the tour, and the guide lays it out in a very compelling manner. 

Once Emperor Constantine legalized Christianity in 313 A.D. by issuing the Edict of Milan, Peter's body was buried where it now is found. Right below the famous Basilica Dome. Once back above ground, if you look for the center metal grating at your feet, you can see the Necropolis deep below. 

St. Peter's Basilica. Just incredible.

This not-to-be-missed tour comes with a bonus: At the conclusion of the tour, you are taken upstairs to the Basilica, bypassing the lengthy lines. You can still veer off to the left side to go up into the dome itself, something we sadly forgot to do. To reach the entrance to the Basilica, you'll go through numerous hallways with the resting places of many other Popes to get there. This makes for a fascinating experience all its own.

To book Scavi Tour Tickets, go to the official site here. Don't be fooled by the numerous other companies' websites into taking a different tour.  They are more expensive- sometimes much more so- and may not include the underground experience.

Again, be sure to bring your passport with you.

I mean NO disrespect here,

but this cute photo makes me want to call them a "gaggle" of nuns 

because of their smiling faces.

What could top the Scavi Tour? Nothing actually, not even the Sistene Chapel in all its splendor couldn't match the powerful experience we had just witnessed. 

The dense crush of the crowds and the very limited time in the chapel itself made for a visit that was much different than we expected. It's loud, the poor security/guides have to yell to communicate with guests, and there's really no time to quietly enjoy the thousands of artifacts on display in the numerous hallways before hitting the chapel. 

Just unbelievable.

For all this, the payoff is worth it. The fresco by Michelangelo is just magnificent! The colors are quite rich, and it seems as if it could have been painted just a few years ago. This is due to the restoration that took place in the 1980s for several years. Contrary to what many think, the entire story of the Bible is painted on that ceiling and not just the creation. 

The Sister Chapel is surrounded by the expansive gardens.

Once we exited the Chapel, we worked our way out through a large maze of hallways that held very little signage in either Italian or any other language. We were rewarded with a nice bench and a break for a drink and a snack. The surrounding gardens are just lovely. Off in the distance is the entrance to the garages.

One of many "Pope-Mobiles" found in the garages below.

One of the most playful- if you can use that word- exhibits is found underground with very little announcement of its very existence. The carriages and cars of the Popes are housed below ground. There's no fee to enter. The plaques tell fascinating tidbits, and visitors are rewarded with a very views of everything from ancient carriages to almost James Bond type automobiles. Since few people go here, the touring is relaxed and delightfully peaceful.

Scenes from our walk back to the hotel.

Everywhere you go in Rome, history is found, and every turn of your head results in discovering beautiful architecture. We made a habit, (no pun intended), of walking into every church we found. Even the very humblest of buildings interested us with the variety of materials used. 

My more than average photo does not capture the beauty of this piece.

A full description.

We took the extra time to walk into the Cappella Della Pieta. I'm not a Catholic, but it was hard not to be moved by this sculpture. There's this feel about Rome that brings about a mix of emotions. The city seems to pulsate with youth and energy, a sense of respect for the ancient and traditional, and a combination of flighty carnality and rich spirituality. Where Paris feels both charming and glamorous, Rome has a sense of substance I've never felt anywhere else. The Eternal City indeed.

The next day would be our last full one here. The agenda held a tour of the Coliseum and Palatine Hill. There'd be a few surprises along the way before leaving the city for the towns of Amalfi. What a wonderful trip so far! Stay tuned.

(Photographs copyright Mark Taft.)

A Little Night Music

Well, truthfully, it's a little afternoon music. After our visit to Rome's incredible Colosseum, we walked a bit and wondered into an area that was definitely a locals hangout. As we entered the restaurant and rounded the corner, there stood three small chairs and a turntable on top of one of them. Being a music lover, I just had to get a photo of what seemed like old school Rome. More trip report coming up soon, including the coolest thing we've ever done and the world's most beautiful restaurant.

(Photograph copyright Mark Taft.)

Italy Before France, Rome Before Paris

Do you daydream about your next travel adventure? I do! If you travel for work or you do it as work, deciding where you are going to go on vacation is always a challenge. Staying home is rarely an option for me. Racking up the frequent flier miles certainly helps cut the costs. Since I'm a sun person and a beach lover Hawaii is always in the running, and our many trips there attest to our love for those islands. Loving culture and history, Europe always calls me. Being a Disney park fan, the consideration of a trip to Walt Disney World definitely comes into play. 

Truth be known, I'm "Disneyed Out" as evidenced by our choice to go to Rome, the Amalfi Coast, and then onto Paris without going to the theme park I love. Yep, that's right- we skipped Disneyland Paris. And if you've never been to the City of Light, you'll need to make some tough decisions as there is so much to see and do there. But Italy before France, Rome before Paris.

 

When we were planning this trip, we decided to ask some of our closest friends to travel with us. They had never been to Europe, and we'd talked about doing that for years and years. This time, everything aligned together, so it was a go. We were all so excited to do this together- and it was the perfect choice of travel buddies for this once in a lifetime adventure.

Planning took us awhile. Just like all good trips. But since this wasn't Disney, we didn't have to deal with many advance reservations. Such a relief, honestly. Our itinerary played out with us starting in Rome, traveling by car to the Amalfi Coast, and then flying from Naples through Milan and onto Paris. 

 

Patio at the Hotel Ponte Sisto.
 

After all four of us searching for rooms- with Airbnb or a hotel- we found the perfect place in a perfect location: The Hotel Ponte Sisto, right across from the Tiber river. Centrally located to everything you'd want to see and just on the other side of the bridge, the old monastery now small hotel was just what we were looking for. Beautiful grounds, rooftop patio bar, lovely breakfast room and larger than normal guest rooms at a decent price for the luxury of it all. Our daily breakfast was wonderful- and of course, included- and we began each meal with a cup or two of Lavazza coffee with hot milk. Delicious new tradition. Rooms at the hotel are a bit of a splurge, but worth every Euro. 

Landing in Rome and getting through Customs and Passport Control was so fast and easy that it would give us extra hours on a day we had thought we'd lost to travel. The whole process took less than half an hour once we deplaned. Our luggage came quickly, although good old United Airlines ripped off my bag's handle through the metal in the center. Taxi service into the city and to our hotel was about 65 Euros- not cheap- but the 35 minute or so ride provided a nice introduction to the Eternal City.

 

One of many fountains.

After checking in, we took off for a walking tour and then a bit of a late snack. It seems everywhere you look, there are ancient structures and remnants of old columns and such. Much like Florence, traffic is thick and fast here. Be safe and stay in the designated walkways at all times. 

We explored around our hotel and then moved on deeper into the city, following the river and branching out from there for interesting spots we had to take in. A nice coffee break and a cornetto (the Italian version of a French croissant) gave us a chance to talk more about our plans for the rest of the afternoon. But we didn't really need an excuse, did we? It's vacation after all! 

Of course, the Trevi Fountain is a must and for good reason! Even in late October, the crowds are dense and it's hard to get close to the lowest level for a great photo. What a beautiful piece of art in a city where you can find it everywhere. The entire complex is larger than you think, and the amount of water pulsing creates a refreshing sound that doesn't quite drown out the crowd noice but makes for a pleasant visit. (I didn't know you could visit under the fountain- at least you can according to the Giadzy website, the home of recipes and tourist tips by celebrity chef Giada de Laurentiis.) We'd originally planned to return to this spot in the evening, but there was so much to explore in the city, it just never happened.

Since the pandemic, advance planning and reservations for a few key attractions are a must. After a bit of research, we discovered in Rome, several were necessary. One was for the Pantheon, one for the tour of the Coliseum and the Palantine Hill tour, and the others were for the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel. As we'd quickly discover, we were extremely glad we planned this out. 

 

The oculus at the Pantheon.

The Pantheon was next on our list with our reservations set for late in the afternoon. The line for folks with tickets was very long, and the square where this sits is much too small for the number of visitors that want to go in. Luckily, it was a pleasant and warm late October day. As with all the attractions in the city, you'd need more than a bit of luck to be able to get into one you did not have advance reservations for. With our reservation, it still took us about 45 minutes to get through the line.  

Originally a Roman temple for pagan gods and now a Catholic church (but seemingly most primarily a tourist hot spot), the Pantheon is an impressive structure filled with equally impressive art of all types. An audio tour is a must to understand it all, and the set of ear pieces helps push out the noise levels so you can concentrate on what you're seeing.  Even though it's an open area with an oculus (a large open hole) to the skies above, it is very noisy.

There's about 20 spots to stop and discover. Pay attention to the floor. The architectural design of the place is stunning and more advanced than you would imagine. Truly genius. (Planning note- the information for tours on line does not make it clear, but if you book an audio tour guide, you pick up your devices inside at a counter off to the left.) The wealth of history here as in all the city is overwhelming at times. So are the treasures as it seems so much is embellished with gold. We spent about an hour and a half inside. Little did we know this would be the least busy spot in all our tours of Roman attractions.

What could be more Italian than gelato? After our self-guided tour, we felt it was time for something playful and delicious. Of course, this became a regular habit! After walking anywhere from four to six miles a day, we all decided we could indulge a bit. While my wife and friends mostly had more traditional flavors, I generally opted for the weird ones. The "Blue Cheese and Pear" and "Baklava" were the two most unique. My order of these resulted in a few funny faces and sideways glances, but I was rewarded by many delicate, out of the ordinary flavors. I eventually did have a scoop of Mango and later Nutella (my favorite food ever), but my love of adventure extends to my palette as well. However, my first dinner was more traditional.

Across the Ponte Sisto bridge from our hotel of the same name, was the neighborhood of Trastevere. It would be the location for our first dinner in Rome. The area's very trendy, filled with bars, shops, and restaurants, a smattering of graffiti (unfortunately something you'll find throughout larger European cities) and lots of music. 

 

Could it get any better?

Once we got our bearings and the sunset came upon the city, we settled into a small square at an outdoor restaurant next door to a local church. Wine was a must. Although I maybe have an alcoholic drink at the most once a month and not more than one (I'm a lightweight), I did have a glass of wine with every evening meal. My order of cacio e pepe, a  tonnarelli pasta made with black pepper and pecorino romano cheese was everything you'd want. Along with great conversation, fresh warm bread, a glass of wine, a balmy Fall evening, and my wife beside me was all I could ever want. Every once in awhile, I'm very thankful to the Lord for His gifts, and I think, "Life is Good!" Yes, this was one of those moments. I love Rome!

We ended the evening with some window shopping and a leisurely walk home. All the traveling wore us out. There'd be much to do the following day, so a good night sleep was a must. 

Tomorrow would unexpectedly bring the coolest thing we've ever done in any of our travels anywhere. Little did we know!

(Photographs copyright Mark Taft.)