Truth be known, I'm "Disneyed Out" as evidenced by our choice to go to Rome, the Amalfi Coast, and then onto Paris without going to the theme park I love. Yep, that's right- we skipped Disneyland Paris. And if you've never been to the City of Light, you'll need to make some tough decisions as there is so much to see and do there. But Italy before France, Rome before Paris.
History is everywhere in the Eternal City.
When we were planning this trip, we decided to ask some of our closest friends to travel with us. They had never been to Europe, and we'd talked about doing that for years and years. This time, everything aligned together, so it was a go. We were all so excited to do this together- and it was the perfect choice of travel buddies for this once in a lifetime adventure.
Planning took us awhile. Just like all good trips. But since this wasn't Disney, we didn't have to deal with many advance reservations. Such a relief, honestly. Our itinerary played out with us starting in Rome, traveling by car to the Amalfi Coast, and then flying from Naples through Milan and onto Paris.
After all four of us searching for rooms- with Airbnb or a hotel- we found the perfect place in a perfect location: The Hotel Ponte Sisto, right across from the Tiber river. Centrally located to everything you'd want to see and just on the other side of the bridge, the old monastery now small hotel was just what we were looking for. Beautiful grounds, rooftop patio bar, lovely breakfast room and larger than normal guest rooms at a decent price for the luxury of it all. Our daily breakfast was wonderful- and of course, included- and we began each meal with a cup or two of Lavazza coffee with hot milk. Delicious new tradition. Rooms at the hotel are a bit of a splurge, but worth every Euro.
Landing in Rome and getting through Customs and Passport Control was so fast and easy that it would give us extra hours on a day we had thought we'd lost to travel. The whole process took less than half an hour once we deplaned. Our luggage came quickly, although good old United Airlines ripped off my bag's handle through the metal in the center. Taxi service into the city and to our hotel was about 65 Euros- not cheap- but the 35 minute or so ride provided a nice introduction to the Eternal City.
After checking in, we took off for a walking tour and then a bit of a late snack. It seems everywhere you look, there are ancient structures and remnants of old columns and such. Much like Florence, traffic is thick and fast here. Be safe and stay in the designated walkways at all times.
We explored around our hotel and then moved on deeper into the city, following the river and branching out from there for interesting spots we had to take in. A nice coffee break and a cornetto (the Italian version of a French croissant) gave us a chance to talk more about our plans for the rest of the afternoon. But we didn't really need an excuse, did we? It's vacation after all!
Of course, the Trevi Fountain is a must and for good reason! Even in late October, the crowds are dense and it's hard to get close to the lowest level for a great photo. What a beautiful piece of art in a city where you can find it everywhere. The entire complex is larger than you think, and the amount of water pulsing creates a refreshing sound that doesn't quite drown out the crowd noice but makes for a pleasant visit. (I didn't know you could visit under the fountain- at least you can according to the Giadzy website, the home of recipes and tourist tips by celebrity chef Giada de Laurentiis.) We'd originally planned to return to this spot in the evening, but there was so much to explore in the city, it just never happened.
Since the pandemic, advance planning and reservations for a few key attractions are a must. After a bit of research, we discovered in Rome, several were necessary. One was for the Pantheon, one for the tour of the Coliseum and the Palantine Hill tour, and the others were for the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel. As we'd quickly discover, we were extremely glad we planned this out.
The oculus at the Pantheon.
The Pantheon was next on our list with our reservations set for late in the afternoon. The line for folks with tickets was very long, and the square where this sits is much too small for the number of visitors that want to go in. Luckily, it was a pleasant and warm late October day. As with all the attractions in the city, you'd need more than a bit of luck to be able to get into one you did not have advance reservations for. With our reservation, it still took us about 45 minutes to get through the line.
Originally a Roman temple for pagan gods and now a Catholic church (but seemingly most primarily a tourist hot spot), the Pantheon is an impressive structure filled with equally impressive art of all types. An audio tour is a must to understand it all, and the set of ear pieces helps push out the noise levels so you can concentrate on what you're seeing. Even though it's an open area with an oculus (a large open hole) to the skies above, it is very noisy.
There's about 20 spots to stop and discover. Pay attention to the floor. The architectural design of the place is stunning and more advanced than you would imagine. Truly genius. (Planning note- the information for tours on line does not make it clear, but if you book an audio tour guide, you pick up your devices inside at a counter off to the left.) The wealth of history here as in all the city is overwhelming at times. So are the treasures as it seems so much is embellished with gold. We spent about an hour and a half inside. Little did we know this would be the least busy spot in all our tours of Roman attractions.
What could be more Italian than gelato? After our self-guided tour, we felt it was time for something playful and delicious. Of course, this became a regular habit! After walking anywhere from four to six miles a day, we all decided we could indulge a bit. While my wife and friends mostly had more traditional flavors, I generally opted for the weird ones. The "Blue Cheese and Pear" and "Baklava" were the two most unique. My order of these resulted in a few funny faces and sideways glances, but I was rewarded by many delicate, out of the ordinary flavors. I eventually did have a scoop of Mango and later Nutella (my favorite food ever), but my love of adventure extends to my palette as well. However, my first dinner was more traditional.
Across the Ponte Sisto bridge from our hotel of the same name, was the neighborhood of Trastevere. It would be the location for our first dinner in Rome. The area's very trendy, filled with bars, shops, and restaurants, a smattering of graffiti (unfortunately something you'll find throughout larger European cities) and lots of music.
Could it get any better?
Once we got our bearings and the sunset came upon the city, we settled into a small square at an outdoor restaurant next door to a local church. Wine was a must. Although I maybe have an alcoholic drink at the most once a month and not more than one (I'm a lightweight), I did have a glass of wine with every evening meal. My order of cacio e pepe, a tonnarelli pasta made with black pepper and pecorino romano cheese was everything you'd want. Along with great conversation, fresh warm bread, a glass of wine, a balmy Fall evening, and my wife beside me was all I could ever want. Every once in awhile, I'm very thankful to the Lord for His gifts, and I think, "Life is Good!" Yes, this was one of those moments. I love Rome!
We ended the evening with some window shopping and a leisurely walk home. All the traveling wore us out. There'd be much to do the following day, so a good night sleep was a must.
Tomorrow would unexpectedly bring the coolest thing we've ever done in any of our travels anywhere. Little did we know!
(Photographs copyright Mark Taft.)
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