Disney Park Countdown #1 - Disneyland

The Original. Walt's Kingdom. The One That Started It All.

For many reasons, it became evident to me while I was compiling the list and writing the posts that my Number One Disney Park on the Countdown just had to be Disneyland. (The whole countdown starts here.) I'll save the personal stories until later on, but Walt's original park topped the list for far more than personal reasons. For now, let's compare Disneyland to the other parks on the list and in the same categories: Attractions, Dining, Shopping, Maintenance being the main items.

Regardless of how you arrive at Disneyland's front gates, there is something moving and timeless about finally being here. Viewing the train station and iconic Mickey Mouse floral from the other side of the turnstiles, you realize there is an old fashioned intimacy and charm about the place. Unlike much of the grand scale presentation of Walt Disney World, the smaller Disneyland doesn't scream "I'm a commercial for The Walt Disney Company". Instead it seems to be the intoxicating and subtle whisper of "I'm a part of history; come explore".

The attractions found here are Disney's greatest hits- with variations on their themes forming the foundation of many of the subsequent Disney theme parks. The Jungle Cruise. Peter Pan's Flight. Mark Twain Riverboat. Autopia. The Disneyland Railroad and it's Primeval World. Dumbo the Flying Elephant. Matterhorn Bobsleds. Submarine Voyage. Monorail. (Swiss Family/)Tarzan's Treehouse. Enchanted Tiki Room. Great Moments with Mr. Lincoln. It's A Small World. Pirates of the Caribbean. The Haunted Mansion. Star Tours. Splash Mountain. Indiana Jones Adventure... the list seems endless. In addition to the greatest number of "dark rides" in any park, Disneyland has more real attractions than the three "secondary" Disney parks in Florida combined. Unlike some of the versions of these attractions found elsewhere, these are the full length originals. Many others are unique to Disneyland, only adding to the richness of the roster.

Not only is the attraction line-up stellar, the upkeep is as well. Disneyland is top notch in maintenance, upgrades, and enhancements. From seasonal overlays to continual tinkering by bringing new technology to perennial favorites and overlooked gems, the park is constantly changing. The love and care for the place manifests itself in gorgeous gardens and small corners where detail could be overlooked but isn't. Even upper levels of the structures reveals care is taken in areas not easily seen, something not uniformly found elsewhere- especially at the beautiful but neglected Disneyland Paris.

Mature trees add something special as well. This natural berm around the park, and plenty of shade in it, bring a sense of natural beauty that quite enhances the man made pleasures. Newer Disney parks aside from Disney's Animal Kingdom cannot compete with this organic handiwork. The Walt Disney Company would do well to learn this is one of the major shortcomings in the Studios themed parks and in California Adventure. As with the use of trees and shrubs and flowers, the Imagineers made excellent use of water at Disneyland. With its rivers and streams, ponds and lagoons, this helps sustain a refreshing environment even on the hottest of Southern California's summer days.

The opportunities for fine dining do not rival Epcot, but the variety of options more than holds its own with the other magic kingdoms. And there is more to be found than the expected hamburgers and hot dogs. Fans old and new rave about the atmosphere of the expensive Blue Bayou, but the delicate interior of the Plaza Inn Restaurant is every bit as inviting. For a rustic, get-away-from-it-all feeling, the patio of the Hungry Bear Restaurant in Critter Country hits the spot. If you're looking for something that feels like World Showcase at Epcot, the lovely Rancho del Zocalo Restaurante in Frontierland will give you pretty decent food in a serene setting. The beautiful patio with its tile work and abundance of bougainvillea seem a thousand miles away from Anaheim.

Snacking is a favorite past time here, too. What would a day of walking the park be without fresh popcorn, a Dole Whip, or a bag of chocolate licorice? In the evening, I've just got to have a mint julep and a fritter as I watch the Mark Twain round the bend from a seat in New Orleans Square!

Retail options, which are part of each park experience, are mixed. Yes, the Disney Channel stars are in full bloom here, and you couldn't expect the park executives to miss a chance to sell character dolls, plush animals, or Star Wars, Jack Sparrow, or Indiana Jones related items. Beyond the expected, take some time to browse some hidden nooks in each land. There are still some themed appropriate surprises waiting to be sold that don't add double duty to the Disney Company's bottom line.

Best of all, Disneyland remains the park to be emulated when it comes to park and attraction specific merchandise. The Disney Gallery is full of gems both old and new. Nostalgia reigns king, and stylized designs celebrating the richness of Disneyland history are found on items for every budget.

There is one area in which Disneyland is on par with Epcot. That is in the realm of live entertainment. The evening fireworks and Fantasmic performances are only the icing on a beautiful cake. The Golden Horseshoe continues to hold live shows and serves real food. The Jedi Academy, although not a personal favorite, is a hit with younger kids and those of the Star Wars generation. From the barber shop quartet to the jazz musicians and other talented folk, the sounds of live music fill the air. It is not common these days for Disneyland to feature top selling recording artists, but in decades past, they have hosted artists from Louis Armstrong and Buddy Rich to the Osmonds and Richard and Karen Carpenter.

It would be easy to think that 55 years of operation and expansion would be the primary advantage for Disneyland placing first among all other parks in the Disney kingdom. In many ways, this is true. However, the years have not always been so kind. And the historical charm and significance of Disneyland also creates some unique disadvantages. There are those who would like to keep Disneyland rooted in its past. (This article about the Disneyland Historical Preservation Society explains much about this philosophy.)

Perhaps in response to this tendency or just a desire to push more merchandise, there has been a marked increase in the characterization of attractions. Although I love the look of the treehouse, fiberglass figures from the Tarzan movie cheapen the experience. The same can be said for Nemo invading the submarines. Am I thrilled they are once again in operation? Sure- where else can you ride in one? Yet there has to be story lines for a great attraction that do not rely on excuses to cram more characters into the park. There are already places for the animated stars- see Mickey's Toon Town and Fantasyland, should the urge strike to bring them in. If they do not fit the theme of the land, they don't belong to be added there. Bringing them in only exhibits a lack of true imagination.

As much as Disneyland is always improving, it is very stagnant- embarrassingly so- when it comes to new attractions. There are vast areas of land that could be used for new attractions, new lands to explore. In fact, renovations aside, there hasn't been a truly new "E" ticket attraction since the premier of the Indiana Jones Adventure in 1995!

Perhaps the disaster of Tomorrowland 1998 made the company suits and money men gun shy. Disneyland's Tomorrowland is the poorest excuse for the land found in any Magic Kingdom styled park. Even Hong Kong Disneyland's look to the "future" makes no excuse for its intent, and from its character-infused design standpoint, it seemingly succeeds. The 2010 version of the future in California is a far cry from the incarnation of 1967. (See Vintage Disneyland Tickets' great post about Tomorrowland '67 here- and just for the record, I loved the Peoplemover and the Rocket Rods!)

Either way, the Disney Company management is resting on its laurels and playing to Disneyland's nostalgic appeal. This is a short-sighted perspective and a real shame. Blame can be placed clearly on CEO Robert Iger for this faulty and unfortunate focus of direction. Even the second decade mistakes of previous leader Michael Eisner did not detract him from believing Disneyland could continue without being forward thinking, nor did any of the leaders before Eisner.

There are other issues keeping Walt's original kingdom from being all it could be. During even slightly busy seasons, walking through the park is now difficult. Pick a land, any one, and you'll find the walkways are crowded. The journey from Main Street U.S.A. through Adventureland into New Orleans Square is a constant mess, and navigating through Fantasyland via the castle is almost as bad. Note to the suits here: the coming rebirth of California Adventure will only bring more folks, not less, to Disneyland. Better plan for this now and think it through! The ease of mobility enhances the experience, so remove inconvenience. It is just not safe to be in a crushing crowd during Christmas trying to walk through the It's A Small World area back to the front of the park. Think of the publicity nightmare should a fire ever break out in the area at that time.

Capacity, stagnancy, and character invasions aside, there is so much to love about the place! In my decades of visiting the park, I have never regretted spending the cash to do so. Be it a solo trip (where I "geek out" looking for details and ride attractions others wouldn't wait for) to a full family excursion (which is pricey but priceless in memories), a day at Disneyland remains a tradition when visiting the Golden State.

I've seen so many changes over the years- many more than I would admit to, but it is part of what builds my attachment to the park as I anticipate its future. From a young boy to a grown man, I have watched the transformation of those acres and been fascinated by the results. Not always happy about them but fascinated none the less.

Beyond nostalgia, there are other pieces of the overall feel of the park that draw me in. As the United States moves away from the concepts and ideologies that have made us a strong, God-fearing nation, there is something reassuring about the inherent and sometimes obvious patriotism that Walt built into the park. The Flag Retreat Ceremony and the Christmas Candlelight Processional are just two reasons the park stirs emotions beyond adrenaline rushes from thrill rides and character meets. Things have changed over the years- and how could they not during 55 years of growth and transformation- but American ideals have remained a constant. Even if it is now the highly held value of consumerism!;)

Change is and should always be the order of the day. Balancing the honoring of the park's roots with the future will be tricky! But I remember so much! The days of the Welch's Grape Juice Bar and Skull Rock are as vivid in my mind as my latest trip through Haunted Mansion Holiday. The Mine Train Thru Nature's Wonderland and Adventures Thru Inner Space are as fresh a memory as my recent spin through Winnie the Pooh's forest. I can vividly recall my opening day journey with Indiana Jones as well as I can remember my oldest son's first ride through America Sings. Somehow, the artistic talent of the Imagineers of all ages has helped ingrain these experiences into my collective memory- and this blog alone testifies to the impact that Disneyland has had on me. (Plus there seems to be tons of trip reports here on it as proof!)

Ultimately, Disneyland succeeds because the memories created there are so very personal for the millions of new guests and those returning year after year. Your actual mileage may vary, but here in brief form are a list of my must-do Disneyland experiences:

• A trip through the Blue Bayou with the Pirates of the Caribbean always tells me I've "come home". What is it about the moonlight, the smell, the caverns, that draw me into a world that says "Disneyland" so clearly?


• "It's a Small World"- OK, I love the song and love the environment. Makes me feel like a kid as much as a journey over Neverland or a wild ride with Mr. Toad.


• Exploring the icy slopes of the Matterhorn. Either course works, and the rough old-school feel of the track reminds me Walt was so right to put this in his park. Perfect when the Christmas parade is passing by!


• I always sense a bit of America's innocence lost and the life of my grandparents as I slowly walk Main Street U.S.A. The shops, the sound of horse's hooves on the pavement, the old time party line telephone in the Market House remind me of gentler years and a slower pace of life. A leisurely trip on the Disneyland Railroad is always a pleasure.


• Cruising the Rivers of America on the Mark Twain at night. From hearing a bit of jazz from the shore to hearing next to nothing as it rounds the bend into the back waters, it is a simple and magical experience.


• Sitting on a bench anywhere in the park watching people. Really!


• Walking through the castle and hearing the kids laugh while riding the carousel. Or going to the castle candy shop. Simples pleasures.


• A late evening trip on the Big Thunder Mountain Railroad. It's a fun ride during the day, but at night- especially from the back car- I just get a rush from the ride. Looking over the rest of the park from the top of the last hill is just so cool.


• Just one more- an almost closing time trip through the Haunted Mansion. New Orleans Square is one of the best Disney lands ever, and it is my favorite place to hang out. It's elegant, winding streets make a perfect backdrop for the small shops and restaurants that line them. You can hear music in the air even when there is no one around! The food here is good wherever you choose to eat, the whole thing rich in detail. Lastly, this land shows Disney Imagineering at its best, and it showcases the two finest attractions ever created by the company. Period.

A bit of self indulgent storytelling here: In the days when the park was open until 1:00am and the crowds thinned out long before, I just had to walk to the back end of the park to go in the mansion by the river. In my middle teens, my family and I planned a visit to the park. At the end of the night, we temporarily split up so we could each do one last thing. I chose the Mansion.

Walking up to the doors, I was the last one let in- and I soon discovered, the only one inside. To experience the attraction totally alone, well, there was nothing like it. Needless to say, this fact did not go unnoticed by the attraction hosts, and more then once the ride stopped mid way through and the sound turned off. I sat in the darkened silence, listening and waiting. Pretty soon, my imagination took me places I never intended to go.

Eventually, I got to the end of the line and departed my silent Doombuggy. Unexpectedly, a quite "in character" host jumped out from behind me- and without hesitation, I quickly ran up the ramp and back outside into the night. It was a ride I will never forget- and one last reason why Disneyland is at the top of my countdown: Those who work in the park understand they are helping guests make priceless memories, and like Walt Disney himself, they delight in exceeding their customer's expectations. For those of you behind the scenes and those in the center of them, thank you for the memories and those to come.

(Photos copyright Mark Taft.)

Quick Links: Disney Park Countdown

For those of you interested, here is a list of quick links to my personal Disney Park Countdown articles:

1. Disneyland (Coming Soon!)
2. Epcot
3. Disneyland Paris
4. Magic Kingdom, Walt Disney World
5. Disney California Adventure
6. Disney's Hollywood Studios
7. Disney's Animal Kingdom
8. Walt Disney Studios Paris

Each article includes photos and commentary, part history and part trip report. Of course, this is just my personal countdown, and I haven't been to the Disney parks in Asia- yet. But one day, Tokyo Disney Sea here I come...

There are well over 800 articles on my blog, so if a particular park is a favorite or a curiosity, do a search or just browse through it. (My cataloguing of articles hasn't always been great, and I am constantly finding I've missed tagging some.) I can guarantee you that you will find articles, Imagineering concept art, and recent news about your favorites. Enjoy- and stay tuned for the Disneyland Park #1 article on the countdown. Thanks for reading!

Disney Park Countdown #2 - Epcot

Were this 1989, this would be my number one ranked Disney park. However, it is almost two and a half decades later, and Epcot is no longer what it was at opening. Yet, I still love the place, and when I long for a trip to Walt Disney World, Epcot is the reason why!

The creators of EPCOT Center had a vision and plans for explaining how we can work together to better human life and enhance community. In my opinion, EPCOT Center most displays Walt Disney's heart for the American people and his desire to improve their lives. It was more than a money making project; it was a true labor of love. Even the entrance music created an atmosphere of hope and discovery.

Changes in recent years signify the transition from a noble and visionary company to one that seems solely profit minded, especially where the parks are concerned. The cynic in me says this grand hope for improving the future has given way to the goal of extracting as much cash from each person possible. The transition from informing and helping people to sheer profitability lends itself to a challenging thought: Has the Walt Disney Company become more interested in taking advantage of people than remembering they are also part of the community of people?

Outright dazzled by my first visit in 1983! Taking the monorail from the Transportation and Ticket Center to the park near closing time created an excitement in me I will never forget. Made it hard to sleep that night! We spend a minimum of two full days at Epcot whenever we have an extended vacation at Walt Disney World. On shorter trips, this is the one park we never miss, but I have passed up visiting the Magic Kingdom and the Studios before, (and next trip, probably Animal Kingdom.)

Recent changes to World Showcase have downplayed the dignity of the nations represented. The beautiful but much shorter than originally planned El Rio del Tiempo was replaced by the character adventure Gran Fiesta Tour, stripping the Mexico attraction of its charm and mystery and rich culture. In it's place, just another living advertisement for Disney characters and films. This makes me sad, as to me, El Rio always captured the beauty and essence of World Showcase. To sit by the indoor lagoon, eat Queso Fundido, have a sublime margarita, and follow it with a voyage into Aztec and Maya history- that was what set EPCOT Center apart from any other Disney world. Now, the differences between it and the Magic Kingdom are sliding away before my eyes.

There is still much beauty and charm to be found in World Showcase, with beautiful gardens and hidden places to explore. A stroll through the countries after the official closing time makes for a truly magical way to end the evening. Walking out from a showing of Impressions of France right into the alleys of a recreated Monmarte, ah! Even without a stop at the bakery, just for a moment I could easily fool myself into thinking I was there.

Despite its charms, there is a definite need for well done refreshing of attractions and additions of new ones- and without characters. Much like California Adventure 1.0, this Worlds Fair portion of Epcot relies too heavily on films while missing a healthy balance of other types of attractions.

There is also minimal kinetic energy. Aside from the boats transversing World Showcase Lagoon, all that moves are the tourists. The canals of Venice need their gondolas. I miss the double deck bus rides that used to recall those of London and Victoria. Rickshaw rides through China would add atmosphere, even a camel in Morocco, but nothing is happening in the realm of transportation. The lack of movement does give this side of the park a tranquility that is absent in the other properties, but it also lends a certain "deadness" when crowds are very low. (See this article for photos from my trip a few years ago in August. Any city morgue was more lively!)


Future World has its own strengths and weaknesses both in design and in the attractions. In design, Epcot's Future World's dated architecture mirrors the concrete world of Disneyland's Tomorrowland. It's time for something new. Innoventions and the surrounding area offends the worst in this aspect, but it is the tombstone like entrance to the park that is the obvious sign the park is losing its focus. Obviously, the historically tinged and somewhat accurate buildings of World Showcase seem charming by contrast, and that side of the park has aged better because of it.

Attractions in Future World now run the gamut of good to bad, with Ellen's Energy Adventure running a close second to the more than awful Imagination complex. In Epcot's early years, there were many Audio-Animatronic adventures to be found in Future World. I loved a ride through the World of Motion and its futuristic cityscape ending. Horizons was a must- the large theater and mesmerising music drew me in. Yes, the robotics became stiff and dated and needed to be changed, but the attraction was a gem in a park of many. Who could resist Spaceship Earth? Not me- and a ride into the sphere was a must-do both at the beginning and the end of the day.

These marvelous pavilions were designed for the entire family, and they were balanced out by smaller exhibits that invited guests to linger and discover what was happening in the worlds of transportation, energy, and communication. Now, Future World has its share of thrill rides but less of a sense of awe and wonder. The newer attractions have created some new fans and lost others. I'm not a fan of Mission:Space, but I love Test Track. The problem is these attractions are not friendly for older guests nor are there engaging smaller exhibits for those of us not of the gaming generation.

On the plus end, the recent changes to The Land have been an overall positive update, not as much with The Seas, although I really enjoy both the Nemo themed dark ride and absolutely love Turtle Talk with Crush. Unfortunately, the actual marine life is now secondary to the character related experiences.


Restaurants used to be top notch across the board, full of authentic dishes not necessarily geared toward American tastes. The Disney Dining Plan has turned a meal at World Showcase into something very difficult, stealing the spontaneity and joy of the touring process. The meals themselves have become ordinary in too many circumstances. It is well known that the chefs at the beautiful San Angel Restaurante have turned its food into something pedestrian. The once stellar Chefs de France is now good but not terrific. Eating in China and Japan is now for the atmosphere versus the meal. Only Canada's Le Cellier seems to be the delight it once was. 

Lastly, why is the United States only represented by hamburgers and hot dogs? Our country is filled with culinary delights from many regions, with tastes specifically ours. In Future World, dining is a wash. The Land Grille Room was much better in its earlier incarnation, The Good Turn, and it was a family tradition to start our Epcot day there for breakfast, following by a boat ride through the growing gardens.

Shopping is pretty fun here, however, with a wide variety of country specific merchandise and even theme park specific items for purchase. This includes some great retro stuff. That creates a mixed reaction in me, as it reminds me of the greatness of EPCOT Center versus Epcot.

With no question, this park has the widest range of engaging entertainment. International performers are scattered throughout World Showcase, adding to the festive atmosphere. The evening spectacular Illuminations remains the definitive Disney nighttime show. Every performance brings a tear to my eye as I see each country lit up as part of the show.

With its abundance of charms but challenging deficiencies, Epcot Center is still a pretty great place to spend the day- but it helps immensely if you only know it from its current form. When compared to its past, it is a fairly pale shadow of its former greatness.

(Gee, I may need to begin a whole series of articles on this park- similar to my True Life Adventure on Animal Kingdom... but in the meantime, search my blog for dozens of Epcot related articles and rare concept art.)
(Art copyright The Walt Disney Company. Photos copyright Mark Taft.)

Disney Park Countdown- #3 Disneyland Paris

In the world's most beautiful city resides a great Disney Imagineering experiment: the theme park as a work of art. (The park is so beautiful, I left all the images very large, just click on them.)

Walt Disney World was bound to capture the masses due to its sheer size and scope. Tokyo Disneyland would win fans by appealing to the Japanese love of all things Disney and a healthy dose of most things American. The challenges were different in Europe. The originally named EuroDisneyland had to be gorgeous to compete with the abundance of man made wonders in the city and the continent at large. If this park was to be a creative and financial success, it also had to overcome the reputation of Americans and Americana as being "second class" and lacking culture. In spite of the challenges or maybe because of them, Disneyland Paris not only succeeds but is the most beautiful Magic Kingdom ever created.

This was the first European park from Disney and the first Disneyland styled park entirely reimagined from the ground up. Thankfully, the principal Imagineer in charge was Tony Baxter. His love for the first Disneyland and his love of old school Imagineering, along with his well recognized eye for exquisite design, made him the perfect man to oversee the design and construction of a park that had to hold its own in a city known for its world famous art.

In an interview from 1995 (found here), Tony recalls a conversation with Marty Sklar about his plans for the park: "I would really like to have a chance to try for a perfect version of Disneyland." And he and his team did create it!

Speaking of team, just look at the group assembled for the job: Eddie Sotto, who created a stunning Main Street U.S.A.- even if it isn't the "Roaring 20's" styled one he fought for; Tim Delaney, whose work on the Jules Verne themed Discoveryland is on par with anything every built at Tokyo Disney Sea; Tom Morris, his take on Fantasyland brings it to a whole new level of beauty; Chris Tietz, no other Adventureland past or present so perfectly accomplishes the task of feeling so remote yet intimate all the while being so vast in size; and lastly Pat Burke, whose designs for Frontierland are so terrific that words are not enough to communicate his accomplishment- though I will try later!

While Tony Baxter cannot and does not take the credit for the park, his ability to draw out the best in his team cannot be overstated. The results clearly speak for themselves. Let me bluntly say this: Disneyland Paris is the ultimate Magic Kingdom styled park.

(Here's a challenge Disney park fans. Look at the photos of this park and then stop and think: the very fact the company would marginalize Tony should tell you much about its true priorities and the negative creative impact it will have on the parks!)
So, what did I see that made me wish this park was my "home Kingdom"? Our first visit was in 1998- and I was mesmerized by what I saw. (My second trip in 2007 was just as impressive.) Although the park does not have the lakeside lot similar to Florida's Magic Kingdom, the elaborate gardens at the entrance perform the task of staging quite admirably.

Walking under the stunning (but pricey!) Disneyland Hotel, the expected Main Street U.S.A. train station comes into view. It's a beautiful building, but it is not until you are in queue and view the handcrafted stained glass windows- depicting each land in the park- that you realize the Imagineers have gone far beyond the expected. It's the same everywhere you look.

For a Disneyland fan, the first sight of the centerpiece castle is one that excites. Here, in a country full of magnificent palaces and stunning structures, Le Château de la Belle au Bois Dormant, impressively mixes fairy tale style with European true to life sensibilities. Like Florida's Cinderella Castle at the Magic Kingdom, it is huge and easily seen from most of the entire park.

In Hong Kong Disneyland, the castle is listed as an attraction to pad the numbers but really has nothing to offer. Here at our French chateau, there really is an attraction worth exploring. In fact, we spent over an hour just viewing its handcrafted tapestries, lovingly created stained glass windows, its balconies and terraces. Of course, the piece de resistance is found at the basement level Dragon's Lair. Inside the dungeon, the fully realized Audio Animatronic dragon snarls and growls, blazing fire and smoke at guests passing by! This dark lower chamber is even reached by a secret passageway from one of the Fantasyland shops above. This is Imagineering at its best!

Beyond the castle, our Parisian Fantasyland is a beautiful combination of Anaheim's (though at a much larger scope and scale) with elements all uniquely its own. There are many small gardens, water features, and plenty of discoveries around every bend.


Much is made of the Alice in Wonderland themed labyrinth and for good reason! The winding paths through manicured gardens make for a great little family excursion. Filled with characters from the film, it is more akin to the "smaller" attractions that provide charm at Walt's original park- the ones that are sorely missed in Florida. It's A Small World is nearby, being the first one to include a United States themed area in the attraction. Very nice.

Besides the Anaheim original, the only other Storybookland Canal Boats are found here. The focus seems to be mostly on the newer Disney film classics with an odd inclusion of The Wizard of Oz. Casey Jr. Circus Train appears next door. However, this one is a real coaster, blatantly ensuring the poorly designed and themed Gadget's Go Coaster will never make its way to France all the while providing thrills for little ones.

Fantasyland has its dark rides as well, with Mr. Toad's Hall being a terrific little restaurant versus the entrance for a ride to nowhere in particular. Peter Pan's Flight, with its double capacity vehicles, draws the same large crowds here as back home. Pinocchio's Daring Journey is almost a walk on just like at home as well. Snow White also has her home here. Each little dark ride is full of all the expected detail and similar storyline but with a twist: each is told in the language of its writer. A nice nod to the diversity of European cultures.

Where to go next? Let's walk by Peter Pan and go into Adventureland.

Similar to the transition between the Florida's Liberty Square from Fantasyland, there is a subtle architectural blending between both lands here in Paris. In fact, the transitions in this park are so smooth yet very distinctive. However, once you enter one land, it is so immersive and so convincingly secluded from all others, it is easy to forget you are in a multi-themed park. The placement of focal points amidst cleverly placed high points and foliage make it next to impossible to see the other lands than the one you are in. This is a strength of the design. The effect reinforces the storytelling, highlighting the brilliant detailing and masterful crafting of the park. But, I digress- back to Adventureland.

From the plaza, Adventureland beckons with a distinctive Arabian Nights theme, a nod to the European perspective of what is considered exotic. Inside the buildings are a nice walk through attraction based on Aladdin, a bazaar, and a very quiet little cafe. Entering from Fantasyland, things are different. Our first view is of Adventure Isle. This fresh take on Tom Sawyer Island, showcases Skull Rock and Captain Hook's pirate ship- a very nice blending from Peter Pans' Flight, which we just walked past in Fantasyland. There are no watercraft plying the area, instead two pedestrian bridges provide access to the island.

Up high on a hilltop is also The Swiss Family Tree House, its roots creating the perfect place for exploration with caves underground and the expected bridges and trails above. This incredible playground also consumed an hour or so of our time, as we had to cover every inch of it; the sights from almost every side of the island had to be captured by my camera. From one angle, the beautifully decaying fortress of Pirates of the Caribbean; from the other, views into an African themed section of the land or the jungle filled ruins of a temple being excavated by Indiana Jones.


Back on shore, Pirates of the Caribbean is the definitive version of this classic attraction- even outpacing the Anaheim original. Most all Disney fans have heard of the dueling pirates found in the "chase" scene, but the action at the beginning of the attraction also impresses. From the smaller marine animatronics, (such as the squid found just out of view from diners at the beautiful Blue Lagoon restaurant), to the very active pirates overthrowing the fortress before riders descend into the middle of the battle, this old standby attraction is reinvented to great effect. Here in Paris, those explosives do detonate- but you'll have to see it for yourself. It was a gutsy move to reimagine the finest of Disney attractions, but Dead Men Tell New Tales here!

Heading back to the central plaza, let's look at Frontierland. In Europe, Frontierland is found where Adventureland resides in the American parks. It's placement seems jarring at first, but when viewing the entrances to each land from the plaza, it makes good sense. Those fanciful Arabian domes seem much more in their proper place next to the equally fanciful castle than an American fort of the Wild West.

Many Europeans love the tales from the American West, its landscapes, its stories, its heroes. This Frontierland captures it all, embracing both the facts and the lore. With the "blessing of size" and the ability to create this land from scratch, the Imagineers, led by Pat Burke, have produced the most compelling landscapes and stories ever created for this piece of the Disneyland styled parks. It is the standout themed land in an entire park of them; the ultimate Frontierland, one I bet Walt Disney himself would have loved to see come to fruition.

Approaching Fort Comstock, you can see how much it looks like the original concept art for California's Disneyland. There are a few Indian teepees in the front alongside the small stream. (Just a side note: Between Adventureland and Frontierland entrances from the plaza side is a cleverly hidden gallery housing restrooms along a secluded path. The designers used a variety of vegetation to gently transition from the Middle East to the Old West of the United States. Excellently done.)

As with the castle, Fort Comstock is also an attraction. You can explore the entire complex, walking the upper levels and enjoying terrific views across the frontier. Legends of the Wild West presents famous figures from American history in full scale tableau. Everywhere you turn, the detail and historical authenticity is incredible. For you Californians that have never been to the Paris park, think Frontierland done with the same amount of care as California's New Orleans Square!

Straight beyond the fort lies Big Thunder Mountain Railroad. Its trains round the track on this rocky island situated right in the middle of the Rivers of the Far West- this is after the ride begins with the trains going under the river. This aspect alone gives the attraction a spectacular beginning, setting the pace for the whole journey. Placing Big Thunder here front and center gives the land much kinetic energy, creating a very different feel from the somewhat sleepy but very mysterious feeling of Adventureland next door.

Back on shore is the town of Thunder Mesa, named as a tribute to the great Imagineer Marc Davis and his never built Western River Expedition. (In fact, this park would be a perfect fit for the never built attraction as Europeans are less politically correct than Americans when it comes to Old West stereotypes.) The expected steamboat sails by, the Disneyland Railroad trains encircle the area, and the nearby shooting gallery creates some excitement. Yet there is something very different and uniquely special about this Frontierland.

While Big Thunder Mountain Railroad is the thrilling visual center of the town of Thunder Mesa, Phantom Manor delivers thrills of a different kind, revealing a sinister undertone to the legends of the community. The debates will continue on as to whether or not this take on the Haunted Mansion is better or worse than the original. Ultimately, the attraction is just scarier and different, (its symphonic score is gorgeous), still fully advancing the stories behind Thunder Mesa while leaving enough room to create your own.

Sitting on the wooden walkways next to the shops far across from Phantom Manor, it was easy for me to suspend belief and dream of truly being back in time. There's a large chunk of land devoted to this theme, and the area is visually secluded from all others, with the layers of detail in sight and sound so rich and varied, the end result is the perfect representation of the old west mythologies. We spent several hours here taking in attractions, exploring the shops, and eating at the excellent and fairly priced Cowboy Cookout Barbecue.

After two visits to the park, I still could not uncover why this version is my favorite of all Frontierlands and perhaps my favorite land in all of Disneyland Paris. As I started to write this post, I was able to come to this conclusion: In California, Frontierland is a shadow of its former self in contrast to what was designed by the Imagineering team under Walt Disney; in Florida, the land is an excuse for the placement of cuddly characters. Only in France, thousands of miles removed from the actual geography represented, does this uniquely American story get the respect it deserves. Bottom line and bluntly stated, this Frontierland feels like the real thing and not an area found in a theme park.

In 1992, I watched the opening of the EuroDisney resort on television, and dreamed and prayed I would one day get to visit. While the banter of American hosts Melanie Griffith and Don Johnson added little to what I wanted to see, the images of Discoveryland stuck in my head. (Remember, this was even before Space Mountain was built. By the way, my very detailed look at the worldwide Space Mountains is found here.) This was what drove me to pursue a trip as I am a big fan of Jules Verne; and for those who are interested, Mysterious Island is my favorite of his writings.


When I finally did see Discoveryland with my own eyes in 1998, the small screen images didn't hold a candle to the monumental work I saw! Walking through the land, I was drawn so many different directions. But I had a single goal in mind: Space Mountain. From start to finish, it was a winner. The ride was smooth as glass, the music drew me in as it enhanced the experience, and the scenery while awaiting launch was stunning. I couldn't ride it enough, although the queue length meant only two trips this go around as there was so much to see and shortened park hours. Even my Disney jaded fourteen year old son walked off the ride with a huge smile on his face! When Space Mountain: Mission Two premiered years later, I lamented the changes I perceived would be made for the new adventure. My ride in 2007 only confirmed they were in fact for the worse.

Exploring a fully developed Nautilus submarine was one of the highlights of my day. I saw clear references to Tony Baxter's long lost Discovery Bay here as well. The place is full of eye candy and the kind of design detail I love. Yet, one of the most endearing attractions at Disneyland Paris is no longer there: Le Visionarium. This circlevision film was great fun and a wonderful introduction to French future/fantasy. However, in our second visit in 2007, this impressive little movie was replaced by the ever popular video game starring Buzz Lightyear. This was not the first of the toon invasions into the park as Toy Story's Pizza Planet restaurant was already added to Discoveryland before our first visit.

When considering the direction Disney is taking with its Tomorrowland's, Discoveryland holds a unique place as being middle ground between Anaheim's original future focused realism and Hong Kong Disneyland's character infused land. May Discoveryland hold its own as the transitions continue by remaining a tribute of visionaries come to life!

Let me take some time to discuss Main Street, U.S.A., the first land in the park. It is every bit as impressive if not moreso than the grander than the original version found in Florida's Magic Kingdom. If the Paris version of the land of the future has taken on a more fantasy bent, I would venture to say the same holds true for its Main Street. There is an idealistic, very artistic, beauty of each building, each billboard, each attraction. The beautiful work of Eddie Sotto and team elevates the land to something befitting landscapes from a dream.

Walt's: An American Restaurant is the perfect example of what I am attempting to communicate. The food is not only delicious but beautifully presented, and the atmosphere is a dream for every fan of classic Disney Imagineering. Artwork from the creation of the parks in found in the restaurant's themed rooms with appropriately styled furnishings. During our second trip (and the only one without the kids), we lunched in the Frontierland room with a window view overlooking Main Street. It was worth every bit of the $75 we spent, one highlight of many in our trip to the park.


After lunch, as with every other land, we lingered here soaking in the details. Exploring the shops one by one, we loved what we found. My favorite was Main Street Motors, a love letter of sorts to the American automobile. The Emporium and Harrington's were also stops for our destination shopping, with equal amounts of detail found in both. Although we ate at Walt's, we did stop in and peak at the Market House Deli and Casey's Corner. More great theming and layered detail.

Although Main Street is relatively short on attractions, the Liberty and Discovery Arcades are attractions all their own. In fact, we spent more time in these than we thought we would, causing a delay of our after park plans. Each arcade held a series of "mini exhibits", adding to the richness of the park. It is these small touches that bring this kingdom closest to the charm of Walt's first Disneyland while maintaining the expanded scale and scope of Florida's.

By this point in my countdown of Disney parks, any reader of this article would wonder what aspects of Disneyland Paris bring it down to Number Three versus a higher ranking. Let's talk about the plusses and minusses of the place.

Beyond its physical beauty, Disneyland Paris offers some of the most enhanced and esquisite versions of the classic Disney attractions. The choices for dining are on par with what can be found at Epcot. From snack choices to fine dining, the park has a variety of options to fit all budgets and preferences.

Readers of the discussion boards of Al Lutz's Miceage, in particular, are familiar with the ongoing complaints concerning the park. And these hold up with good reason. This beautifully designed place is saddled with very poor maintenance- probably the worst of all the Disney theme parks. It is not that the cast members are not doing their jobs. In fact, the cast members are very kind, courteous, and knowledgable. Simply said, the business planners for the park have not given enough resources to keep the park up to its opening day standards in upkeep and cleanliness.

The lovely setting from the second floor found in Walt's was offset by what I viewed from the window. Rotting wood, peeling paint, and general disrepair of the buildings found across the street took away from the experience inside. The same held true for the higher reaches of the park's castle, parts of Adventure Isle, and slices of each of the park's themed lands. There was a noticable difference in these standards between visit one and two, much to my dismay.
Item number two: downgrading the shopping experience. What are character plushes and plastic toys doing out in the open streets of Adventureland? (Or even in the shops here at all?) This is a horrible trend, one that should be reversed immediately. Our first visit held plenty of unique, even theme park exclusive, merchandise. Not on our second visit. Seems this disease is spreading from Florida!

Next, delay in bringing new theme appropriate attractions. No excuse here for stagnation. It does take money to make money. Learn from Walt here and not the corporate raiders of our day. The park should have new- not reimagined- attractions between 1998 and 2007. Replacing Le Visionarium for Buzz and rotating 3D movies is not the way to go. Nor is a new children's play area at the Adventureland beach or thowing in Woody and company into Frontierland.

Lastly, and this piece is not entirely the fault of the Walt Disney Company, but the fault of the park's management, are the guests. Far too many of the park's visitors are incredibly disrespectful of both other guests and the beautiful surroundings. I have personally witnessed public outdoor urination, widespread invasion of nonguest areas, and extremely poor manners with regards to line cutting. Is this really the same European guest that is amazingly respectful of the unprotected artistic masterpieces found in the Musee d'Orsay or the Louvre? My mind says impossible, but my mind also says probable. Either way, park security does nothing, only adding to the frustration of being in a beautiful park that at times feels out of control.

Do not let the downside to this European Disneyland stop you from visiting! From a thematic and design viewpoint, this is the finest Magic Kingdom ever created, maybe even on par with the much heralded Tokyo Disney Sea. Though outside the city limits, the park fits in perfectly with the City of Lights and is certainly worth an entire day of exploration.

Six parks down and two to go. As with this article on Disneyland Paris, there is much to say about both Epcot and Walt's beloved Disneyland in California. Keep watching for the next part in this series where I reveal my Number Two choice.
(Photos copyright Mark Taft.)

Disney Park Countdown Continues

Our park countdown continues tomorrow morning. Disneyland, Epcot, Disneyland Paris. Which park ranks third on my current list of best Disney lands? Come back tomorrow morning and find out for this detailed and fascinating look of what makes our Top Three worthy of their place.

The Countdown Continues...

Wow- My forthcoming last three posts on my Disney Park Countdown are each becoming a massive combination of park history and trip report. Some of the most detailed I have ever written with more text and photos than I ever expected. Bear with me- the results will be worth it!

Disney Park Countdown- #4 The Magic Kingdom, Walt Disney World

Tough, tough choices as I approach the Top Four on the list! As I said earlier, these top choices are as far removed from the ones below it, as far as could be. So, on with the countdown. At Number 4- Walt Disney World's original and beautiful Florida park- The Magic Kingdom.

There is a magic that is Walt Disney World, a magic that existed at its opening almost 40 years ago, a magic that still exists today. It's not a kingdom without its deserved criticisms, but Florida's first Disney park shines above it all.

As a Californian where the smaller, more charming, and original Disneyland was my "home" park, it would be easy to think that I have little attachment to the Magic Kingdom. You'd be wrong! From my trips there as a young teen, to visits with my children, to my last visit in 2009, I still get a rush journeying by ferry over the Seven Seas Lagoon and walking under Main Street's elaborate train station. That first view of the castle still wows me.

The grand scale and scope of the place sets the Magic Kingdom apart from the one graced by Walt's steps as do its many unique attractions. Just going down that list is pretty impressive for a park often dismissed as a lesser clone of Disneyland: The Hall of Presidents, Country Bear Jamboree, Swiss Family Treehouse, Tomorrowland Transit Authority, Carousel of Progress, and my favorite 3D film, Mickey's Philharmagic.

In my earlier visits, If You Had Wings ("...had wings, had wings, had wings...") was a must see, the Plaza Swan Boats circled the plaza, the Mickey Mouse Revue played to packed houses, Mr. Toad's Wild Ride ran double courses around London and the countryside, and the stunning Nautilus submarines cruised the Fantasyland waters on its 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea journey with Captain Nemo. In later years, the truly edgy Alien Encounter and the entertaining Timekeeper were the centerpiece of a stunning Tomorrowland remodel. Granted today's line up also includes missteps with attractions from the awful Stitch's Great Escape to the out of place Monsters Inc: Laugh Floor!
Liberty Square remains one of the most beautiful and delicately imagined Disney lands in any park. This tribute to Americana and those who gained our initial freedom is at once patriotic, inspiring, and unique. Walking through the area and taking in its sights brings me a thousand miles away from Central Florida. The entire experience of Liberty Square is much more effective than the singular building and attraction of the American Adventure at Epcot.

Regarding the remaining lands, only Tomorrowland and Main Street U.S.A. are very effective, but even those suffer from the character infusion in the land of the future and the shopping experience the "turn of the century" has turned into. Frontierland feels remote but pressed back into a corner. It needs something new. Adventureland was once beautiful. The overall atmosphere and mystique has been destroyed, with Caribbean Plaza needing to see the return of its unique blend of entertainment, shopping, and eateries. For now, Fantasyland pales compared to its other cousins. (Hong Kong Disneyland's version is its equal from what I can see.) Honestly, each Disney park has its imperfections. The Magic Kingdom is no exception, although its size and scale makes them more obvious.

Dining in the Magic Kingdom offers much variety. The handsome Liberty Tree Tavern, the nautical Columbia Harbour House, and the beautiful Crystal Palace leap to mind as primary examples here. Certainly, dining inside Cinderella Castle is still great fun for little ones. Who can resist Main Street's Confectionary or a Mickey Mouse Ice Cream bar? That said, it is time to get the Diamond Horseshoe back to its high-kicking dancehall routines.

Shopping used to be pretty good here, especially when the Magic Kingdom was the sole park. In this aspect, Liberty Square was once the New Orleans Square of Florida- there was a perfumerie, antiques store, a shop that focused on American history, and a bigger emphasis on authentic goods and reproductions fitting the theme. These days, it is the same old story: the requisite Christmas shop, etc.

However, it is still the attractions that most define a park. When it comes to the Disney staples- adventures that almost require them being built for the opening of each additional Kingdom- it is a mixed bag of results. The newly improved Haunted Mansion has now moved past its California cousin, this Splash Mountain remains the best when in full working order, and Space Mountain's rockets offer an experience as different from that in California as it is from the one in Paris. Tomorrowland may have a couple of "dog" attractions at its entrance, but its architecture glows day or night! The energy of the Tomorrowland Transit Authority only adds to the excitement.

On the other side of the comparison equation, although I love the ending of Florida's It's A Small World, the exterior diminishes the wow factor to some degree. Pirates of the Caribbean, with the gorgeous fortress marking the queue still gives guests an abbreviated ride. Adventureland needs another makeover after the Aladdin themed addition, and the whole of Fantasyland is a disappointment when it comes to vast expanses of concrete replacing the lush gardens and green spaces of other parks. As I said, its a mixed bag. Yet even these inferior versions of Disney Imagineering staples outweigh the attractions found at California Adventure, Disney's Hollywood Studios, and Animal Kingdom.

What comes next to draw guests in? The Fantasyland Forest addition has its promising elements. The Little Mermaid: Ariel's Undersea Adventure is at the top, but character meet and greets do not a Wizarding World of Harry Potter make. Ramblings of new experiences for Frontierland are starting to make the rounds, but rest assured, Disney suits will make sure the park remains stagnant for a few more decades before making another large investment into the park.

Five down, three to go. There's one park remaining from California, Florida and France. Which will be at the top? Stay posted.
(Photos copyright Mark Taft.)

Disney Park Countdown- #6 Disney's Hollywood Studios

We continue on with my countdown of Disney's parks, based on the eight I have personally visited...

Let's talk about Number 6: Disney's Hollywood Studios, also known as the park that opened as Disney-MGM Studios in 1989. A very brief hgistory of this park gives us a glimpse of the problems still associated with it.

Back in the 80's, things were booming in Central Florida, and The Walt Disney Company was trying to compete with the soon to be built Universal Studios. The fiercely competitive Michael Eisner was at the helm, and plans were quickly announced to the public. Disney would open its own film based theme park by the end of the decade along with a massive expansion unprecedented in the history of the company. (Just how massive? Take a look at a series of postings about the expansion of Walt Disney World in 1989 starting here. I was there- and I have included dozens of my original photos.)

With the time crunch of the Imagineers and the thought this would be Disney's first official "half-day" park, the Disney-MGM Studios debuted with the smallest attraction roster ever seen in a park built by the company as well as the smallest amount of acreage used to date. The park's layout was awful at opening. Flash forward over 20 years later, and it is much the same.

Why do the Studio parks seem to rank so low with me? Too many theater shows, too many attractions using film as the primary storytelling medium, and not enough rides that move the guest.

However, the strengths of Disney's Hollywood Studios are plenty! The park still has the premier version of The Twilight Zone Tower of Terror. Regardless of the hoopla surrounding the benefits/detractions of the fifth dimension room, the surrounding gardens and overall presentation and placement makes the original Tower stand tall compared to its sisters in Paris and California.

The elaborate but somewhat dated Great Movie Ride remains a must see as it is filled with great sets and Audio-Animatronic figures. Could it use an updating and refreshing? Absolutely- and Disney should be ashamed for letting the park's centerpiece attraction lay mostly unchanged and then obstucted from the outside by the large Sorcerer's Apprentice hat. A very bad show on both counts- but the ride itself is still great fun!

One Man's Dream, reminding guests of the incredible man who started it all and his vision, is a new century version of The Walt Disney Story once housed at Disneyland and in Florida's Magic Kingdom. Any true Disney geek/historian has got to see this place to believe it! The combination of park models, the artwork, and the movie about his life make this a must-see attraction.

Star Tours is on par with its cousins in other locales, but the unique Indiana Jones Stunt Spectacular remains as thrilling and fun as it was at my first viewing. This attraction is nowhere else to be found, making it another Florida only attraction. The concept of unique attractions at individual parks makes each resort special, something forgotten with the current Disney management.

Dining here is a mixed bag, but when it is good, it is great: The 50's Prime Time Cafe and Brown Derby are terrific. Even though the Sci-Fi Dine In serves some pretty overpriced and bland dishes, how can you beat the atmosphere?

Shopping used to be pretty good, and it is still better than many of the other parks. At the opening, the authentic looking bungalow housing Sid Cahuenga's was one of many places to go for enchanting Hollywood memoribilia. Nowadays, it seems like mostly the latest Pixar stuff or Hannah Montana trash and trinkets, but you can still find some great things if you look for them. Time to update and retrofit the shops, I'd say. The whole park as well.

It's not that the park hasn't been updated. The wonderful Monster Sound Studio has been replaced by the disasterous attraction starring Drew Carey. (And I really like the guy!) The timeless Superstar Television has given way to American Idol; something I am sure the suits will one day regret. The once terrific Studio Tram Tour is now as empty an expedition as the one in Paris.

Certainly, there are aspects of the park that have not been updated or have been demolished to poor effect. Florida's Fantasmic! pales compared to California's version. The Beauty and the Beast stageshow is past its prime, the Animation Tour has lost its heart, and the park has lost its focus.

Park layout is as frustrating and confusing as ever. The terrific looking Pixar Place creates a huge traffic jam as folks love the showhorned Toy Story Midway Mania. (If they truly do open the oft rumored Monsters Inc. coaster, the Imagineers had better create a lengthy in building queue for the throngs of folks waiting to ride.)

Crowd control is even worse surrounding the American version of Lights, Motors, Action Extreme Stunt Show. Yet areas of the park are strangely empty, creating pockets that feel like a ghost town.
It is clear twenty years later that Disney was rushed in creating the place, leaving a jumbled mess of a puzzle to be solved by someone else- someday. There's no leader here as with Bob Weis for California Adventure (who was very involved with the Studios at conception), Tony Baxter for Disneyland or Joe Rohde for Animal Kingdom. Will the problems ever be truly addressed or will the park remain in limbo?
(Photos copyright Mark Taft.)