November 16, 2021

Why Every Disney Park Fan Must Visit Universal Orlando's Diagon Alley (September 2021- Day Six)

After four days exploring Walt Disney World, now things were about to get very serious! Comparing those resort hotels and entertainment districts to the ones at Universal Orlando Resort is one thing, but comparing their theme parks, well, that brings it all to an entirely whole new level. 

If you're reading this blog, it is probably because you're a Disney Imagineering and parks fan, you love the music of Richard and Karen Carpenter, like the travel photos, or maybe are curious about things of a spiritual nature. But my guess is you first discovered Insights and Sounds and its 3600 articles over a decade ago because of an interest in Disneyland and Walt Disney World. Perhaps you're here expecting the next part - Day Six- of  my September 2021 Trip report, "Walt Disney World vs. Universal: An Old School Disney Imagineering Fan Visits Universal Studios Florida". Well, you found it. 

Just a note before I begin: During our two full day stay with Disney's main competitor, we park hopped quite a bit between the Universal Studios Florida park and its younger sibling Islands of Adventure. For clarity's sake, I'm going to limit each of the next two posts to mainly cover one park's offerings and our experiences there. For this article, I'll cover Universal Studios Florida and the younger of the Harry Potter themed lands. Ready?

The view from our room
at the Dockside Resort.

After a good night's rest, we headed off for early entry to the Studios theme park. Opening time for resort guests was 7:00am, so just like planning for Rise of the Resistance, it was an early day but without the boarding group stress.  Diagon Alley and its main attraction, Harry Potter and the Escape from Gringotts requires a bit of sacrifice if you want to experience them in the best way possible.

Shops, restaurants, and two miniature golf courses.
A great place to spend an evening!

Pumped by what I saw the day before at City Walk, the whole layout, and of course, the Royal Pacific Resort, I was more than ready. Unlike the endless requirements for planning a vacation at Disney, the entire booking process had been a snap for theme park tickets and for room and restaurant reservations. I could book what I wanted when I wanted. How refreshing! Upon arrival, we happily discovered the transportation busses came often and the ease of security screening seamlessly flowed. All said, I anticipated we'd be in the park and headed to explore, I mean escape from, Gringotts Bank with Harry by 7:10am at the absolute latest. 

I am not a huge fan of Harry Potter, and I did not read the books. I did, however, agree to watch the movies in the months leading up to our trip in preparation for entering the lands and understanding the stories told. Therefore, I was very curious as to what I'd find in just a few minutes as I saw it all for myself. 

Huge, impressive entry!

Quick, easy, fast bus ride and effortless screening? Check. Brisk walk to the Studios entrance and right to the front of the turnstiles? Check. Scan and walk in? No. The Universal team members contacted their supervisor because our tickets wouldn't scan, so we were stranded waiting to get in. We showed them our emails. We even handed them the printout of all our reservation receipts and our hotel reservation that I had carried with me just in case. They said they'd be right back. Folks started flooding into the park as the sun began to rise.

About 15 minutes later, we were still waiting. Finally there came an apology and a request to go directly to Guest Services at the front by the booths. This took another 20 minutes of waiting in line before we were helped. The problem was resolved when the team member found our records but discovered the tickets were printed with the first part of the bar code missing. Of course, since it was an automated process, no one caught the mistake before they were mailed to us. We didn't know any better,  so we assumed all was A-OK. Needless to say, we finally walked into the park and headed toward Diagon Alley

Pretty authentic recreation.

Universal Studios Hollywood is not a very well themed park. I found the experience to be more of the same here. In comparison to the East Coast Studio park at first glance through the gates, the dismal Disney California Adventure 1.0 was looking more like an Imagineering masterpiece. 

Since I already live in a big city, walking through the front half of the Florida location transports me to nowhere I want to be. Universal's version of Fisherman's Wharf in San Francisco caught my eye but did not hold my attention. New York? Pass. Los Angeles? No, thank you. Already been to all three in person, and there was minimal appeal. Perhaps the props and temporary booths for Halloween Horror Nights took away from the theming that was there, but still, I was a bit concerned. Was this decision the wrong one? Did I waste a day when I could have been at Disney?

Faithful to the real deal in London.

Make no mistake, everyone was headed to the same location and for good reason. The headlining attraction, Harry Potter and Escape from Gringotts has the reputation of being the proverbial icing on the cake of the incredible Diagon Alley. Holding very lengthy standby lines, (one rumor says the ride's queue can extend to hold up to a two and a half hour wait), it seemed every guest in the park wanted to ensure they'd get on. The friendly cast members who lined the walkways waved and greeted us, offering to take photos, but it seemed no one stopped as experiencing the best of Universal Creative was goal Number One.

The big reveal. Unbelievable!

I won't give away how you get into Diagon Alley, (you'd miss it if you didn't follow the crowds or have someone with you who already knew), but the first sight you view upon arrival is just astounding! It is a whole new world that makes it feel like you're in a totally different theme park than the one you entered. 

After experiencing Disney's single Intellectual Property themed lands in person at least a couple of times each, it's difficult to rank California Adventure's Cars Land next to Animal Kingdom's Pandora or Disneyland / Hollywood Studios Star Wars Galaxy's Edge, but let me say that without any hesitation, Diagon Alley is the best of them all! 

Yes, Universal Creative has finally bested Walt Disney Imagineering.

Everywhere you turn, there is eye candy
and incredible design detail. 

As a decades long fan of highly detailed theme parks and a fan of both old school first generation Imagineers and newer ones like Tony Baxter and Joe Rohde, I would have been content to stop and stare and wander for quite awhile. The theme park commando side of me (who can cover 26 major attractions in one day at Disneyland), won out as I knew it was time to ride the main attraction before it meant hours of waiting in queue later on, so off we went into the bank.


What a setting and amazing queue for what was to come!

Our wait was less than ten minutes as we must have entered at just the right time. The totally convincing bank lobby is filled with both advanced and simple Audio-Animatronic goblins (or whatever Universal Creative calls these figures). These are quite easily within arm's reach, but no one tries. The experience feels real and not imaginary. The queue to the preshow is filled with touches of genius that replicate the feel of the sequences in the film. The Daily Prophet  newspaper helps tell the story, and while you're in line, silhouettes of Harry, Ron Weasley, and Hermione Granger are found inside an office plotting their next steps as they prepare to go down into the vaults. Guests are pulled into the story from the minute you enter the bank until the final moments of the escape. You don't want to miss any of it.

The preshow is witty and charming, giving guests to the vaults a taste of the magic they're about to encounter. The environment is fully immersive and feels just as important a part of the story as the physical ride. Even the creatively explained and presented safety warning keeps you fully focused. I can see Disney suits and Imagineers incognito walking through Harry's world taking mental note after note while they watch visitors stare wide eyed and open mouthed in disbelief.

The smiles lasted ride after ride.

After taking the elevator deep into the underground, a very convincing ride unto itself, we boarded a vehicle that remind me of Disneyland's Indiana Jones Adventure "troop transports". I'd read this was actually a story telling roller coaster attraction, so I had a hint of what to expect- or so I thought. I won't divulge any details, but you can be sure to encounter characters of various types including Bellatrix Lestrange and the books and movies' big bad Lord Voldemort as well as thrills in ways you don't see coming. If you think you know this headliner by only watching on line videos, think again. The actual experience is one you won't forget. You will want to immediately get in line once more. (How does it compare to the Forbidden Journey next door? More on that later.)

For those of you light on enjoying roller coasters, the thrills are real but not beyond intense (unlike that of Island of Adventure's supremely breathtaking Velocicoaster). There's not a single inversion to be found, but one character encounter feels so real that on our second journey through, I had to remove my glasses to see if it was a 3D image or a full blown robotic. No, I won't share the answer. You'll have to - and should - ride it yourself. Over and over.

After two impressive and thrilling rides in a row, with the second was just as eye popping as the first, it was time to stop for breakfast along with some iconic Butterbeer. Where? The Leaky Cauldron, of course. 

A  fine place to dine!

Our meals were very good, generously portioned, and fairly priced, but the three different versions of Butterbeer were the stars of the show. Interestingly, we ordered our drinks hot, cold, and frozen, and the ones we ordered individually ended up being our favorites. After we tasted them all, I found the frozen one most to my liking. But on a colder or dreary day, my wife's nice hot cup of Butterbeer would go down oh so smoothly. Starbucks could make a fortune duplicating this! 

All three Butterbeers and a Pumpkin Juice.

It would be difficult if not impossible back home to get just the right blend of butterscotch, caramel, and vanilla that I tasted. More than once since we returned have I wished I could get a mug of it. As for Pumpkin Juice, my wife and son enjoyed it quite a bit, but in all honesty,  I thought the pumpkin and apple combination was good but not great. Definitely a lighter alternative compared to Butterbeer's incredibly tasty richness. 

Detail is built upon stunning detail.
Is that a real train passing overhead?

 
Timepieces of interest.

 
I loved these clever travel posters!

Making a point to walk into every shop we could, I was continually in awe of what was designed. I have more photographs of this area than perhaps any other park visited during our trip! How often do you go inside a theme park store and take as many photos of what is there as you do the landscapes, shows, or the attractions? The lines are so successfully blurred in Diagon Alley that it seems everything is an attraction that cannot be missed.

 
An experience available to all- and no upcharge involved.

It was a ten minute wait for Ollivanders, and the show inside is a totally free presentation. Relatively short, it was not the light saber building experience at Disney's Hollywood Studios, but I did not have to spend over $200 on one to see it either! We loved the cleverly designed queue filled with shelves and shelves of wands! Once we left the back room where the demonstration took place, the little shop was filled with people buying them in all shapes and sizes to activate the 20 plus magical spots found between both parks. At a minimum of about $45 a wand, that's a whole lot of money made by first offering a free show- and a very charming one at that. Give the guests more than they expect, and you'll be rewarded. I think Walt Disney said something like that when building Disneyland


The darker side of the Potter tales makes for a compelling walk through experience.
Note- These two photos are taken inside!

The darker side of the land is represented by Knockturn Alley, an area filled with twists and turns where the dark arts are practiced and evil-doers gather. The shops explore that sinister theme, and although the area is excellently created and highly interactive, parents with smaller children might be best advised to avoid it. The wisdom of the parents knowing their own kids and not a movie rating will best determine when and if a visit here is the right decision.

Disney's classic Haunted Mansion has a few elements of a lighthearted approach and playful music to sooth worried nerves and a young child's apprehension. However in Knockturn Alley, any slice of humor seems a grimmer afterthought. But it did get me to thinking perhaps Disney's longtime fan request for a villain focused Magic Kingdom could be quite fun if done to this extent and level of commitment. 

Look closely.

By the time we decided to see the rest of the park, we realized we had been in Diagon Alley just over three hours. In a land with one ride. One single ride. Our two trips into the vaults together had logged about 40 minutes total from queue to exit, and breakfast took a half an hour. So effectively, we spent two hours walking around. Two hours of total immersion that flew by because we were so amazed by what was accomplished. That was just the amount of time we spent there on our very first visit on our very first day!

Universal's hat trick? Beating Disney at their own game!

In stark contrast to what we saw as we entered and walked through the Studios, you can easily tell no expense was spared in bringing Diagon Alley and its attractions, shops, entertainment, and restaurants to life. Without this place, I'd never enter this particular park again. It is just not worth the price of admission or more importantly, the time it takes to see it. It would be a one and done. However, with Diagon Alley and all it offers, the park becomes a must do experience.

The employees are clearly and rightfully proud to be working here! You could sense the excitement in their smiles, their willingness to help, and the way in which they remained in character without being cheesy. Among the three of us, we purchased several items of varying prices. My son purchased two additional wands for his collection and then some. We picked up a few items for ourselves and a gift or two. 

It was difficult to decide as each shop offered unique merchandise fully in theme with the establishment in which it was found. Not a single Marvel character piece or Jurassic Park item could be found in either Diagon Alley or Hogsmeade. Just the way it should be! Universal, perhaps under the requirement of author J.K. Rowling, had gone back to the brilliant Disney Imagineering playbook of old- every element in a land has to reinforce its theme. No exception to the rule. Nor could you purchase the Harry Potter books or movies in the land. This also keeps you in the story. Wisely made decisions, Universal Creative. 

Exploring Springfield.

Heading back into the park before taking the Hogwart's Express train to Islands of Adventure, we did walk through each area and rode all the attractions except Rip, Ride, Rock It and Transformers. The former was deemed "painful and rough" by our thrill loving son, and the latter described as "if the other rides started to make you sick, this one will do it even more". I'm glad we took his advice!

Most all the rides at the Studios involved some type of simulator, often requiring 3D glasses. Leaving a bit of sameness and fatigue, I did find myself wanting to go back to Diagon Alley to experience something truly great again. 

The zippy Jimmy Fallon's Race Through New York followed this exact same combination and so did the very cute Despicable Me: Minion Mayhem. We certainly were not in the mood to eat after riding so many of these one after another. With no shows happening due to the pandemic, the options were fewer than there might normally be. Whatever normal is these days. 


A bit of snark but funny as can be!

I just could not miss The Simpsons Ride! The preshow takes a nice, solid shot at Disney and the Magic Kingdom's patriotic The Hall of Presidents. Boarding the vehicles once used for Back to the Future, we strapped in for a ride that was as funny, irreverent, and sharp witted as the series, but it left my wife and I with a bit of an upset stomach. 

There are a few exceptions to the rule of simulator rides and spinners. The E.T. Adventure attempts a bit of Peter Pan's Flight sweetness, but years after the famous film's release, it just doesn't connect with the audience as effectively. It's an embarrassment, looks tired, and needs to be ripped out. The kid's area around it is just as bad, needing both paint and a healthy dose of imagination to make it appealing.

 
Taking it to the next level.

Men in Black Alien Attack. As shooter rides go, this is the only one Disney or otherwise that feels like a full blown "E Ticket" attraction. Fully realized sets, sometimes stunning robotics, and a few unexpected twists give this a high level repeatability. It's just plain fun and worth the wait in line.

Lastly, The Revenge of the Mummy is a serious coaster mixed with a scarier, darker, version of an Indiana Jones Adventure type story. The recurring "sell your soul" theme gives me the creeps as I believe Hell to be a real place as the Bible tells, and I had that thought lingering a bit as we rode. The totally evil Imhotep appears several times, but the filmed elements of him are too noticeable for what they truly are. As much as I was looking forward to Revenge, ultimately, this attraction was a one and done for me. 

Early morning at the station.

We finally decided it was time to ride the train over to Islands of Adventure and see the original Wizarding World for ourselves. Having been to the real London several times for both work and pleasure, I found the recreation of King's Cross Station quite well done. 

Heading to station 9 3/4.
Now you see him...

 
...now you don't.

Just how would Universal Creative allow riders of the train to go into a solid brick wall or would they just not go through the effort? Using a bit of the famous Pepper's Ghost effects, they did make it work- and it makes for a great photo opportunity if you wait for it. And we did.

Disney who?

All aboard for Hogsmeade!

When it was first announced that park guests would have to have a two day park-hopper ticket to be able to ride this train to see the two different shows, I thought it was a stroke of business genius. But the creative team would have to design something worth experiencing to get them to pay for it. They did. Both directions, the ride is a bit thrilling, each dissimilar, and passengers get to experience different character interactions in ways they do not expect. 

Should Epic Universe create a third Harry Potter themed land making one for each park, Universal Orlando Resort will be primed to take even more days away from Walt Disney World. They had already lost two days to Universal for us during this trip, and in the future, it will happen again. I know I am not alone in this- and I am not their targeted demographic. Or am I?


Creating your own drinkable potion- A bit of marketing magic!

As I mentioned at the beginning of this article, I would combine our experiences over both days into one post for each park. After visiting Hogsmeade and its attractions, and also riding Velocicoaster- that thing is a mesmerizing beast, drawing you in visually before it destroys you- we returned to Diagon Alley for another ride to the vaults, spent even more time exploring and snacking on both uniquely themed candy, drinks, and ice cream. When we felt we did it all, we finally left at closing time for our dinner reservation at Toothsome Chocolate Emporium.

Folks line up and wait for him to belch fire. We were not an exception!

Here is my one beef with Diagon Alley: I was not able to stay any later to experience the land at night. I can only imagine the atmosphere created by a bit of sunset and well planned lighting against the blackness of a moonlit sky. I just might have to go back one day during the busier seasons to get to do that.


A more kid friendly version of Steampunk 
in comparison to adult leaning The Edison at Disney Springs.

Before answering the bigger questions below, I want to say that City Walk's Toothsome Chocolate Emporium is a great place for drinks and a meal! My flounder was perfectly cooked, presently in the classic style, and quite a large piece of fish. The sides were great as well. The service was excellent and the environment fun. Again, all for much less than we expected.

Fire water? Somehow I missed it!
 
How did Universal beat Disney with Diagon Alley? Why should every Disney theme park fan visit this place? Universal's hunger to compete as the underdog drove their success with this project. Let's start with a few objective contributing factors.

First, in order to get the most out of visiting Diagon Alley, you do not need to book a boarding group in order to ride the main attraction or miss out; pay an uncharge fee for an exclusive event; or book a hard to get reservation at a limited space bar or restaurant. Every single Harry Potter themed experience is open to all guests regardless of income, time restrictions, or forced exclusivity. Yes, I'm looking right at you, Star Wars: Galaxy's Edge! This land may be Diagon Alley's closest competitor in excellence, but on Batuu, there are very clear class distinctions and a definite caste system of haves and have nots. This mindset is invading the Disney Parks at an alarming rate. Genie+ and its pay to ride Lightning Lane may be the worst offender yet. For all its talk on inclusiveness, the Walt Disney Company executives are talking out of both sides of their mouths. 

Secondly, Universal stayed true to the content of the source material, investing the large amounts of money necessary to bring it all to fruition in the manner it was deserved. The quality of the land is in all its details. Top to bottom, Diagon Alley and its attractions, shops, restaurants, bars, and experiences are seamless and rich. There's a warmth and familiarity here that you don't find down the street. Charm abounds. This is a world you want to be in. All day long.

A taste of what's to come at Islands of Adventure!

Third in line, Butterbeer. When something like Blue Milk is as closely identified with the Star Wars film series, you'd better make it excellent. It's just not memorable. After a total of three visits to Batuu, two on one coast and one on the other, the lines for this iconic drink in either color are rapidly decreasing. Butterbeer, on the other hand, is delicious, comes in various forms, and is consistently tied into the story. It's an example of excellence in food and beverages that subtly strengthens the overall story.

Lastly, it is impossible to discern what may have been deleted from the original project plans. I cannot say this about portions of what was built at Disney's Hollywood Studios or Disneyland. When it's good, it's great, but large swaths of the area feel incomplete and even lifeless. Somehow, Harry Potter and friends seem as if they are right around the corner in this world even though you know on a cognitive level they are not. 

As well done as they are, it was not the movies that made me a Harry Potter fan, it was Diagon Alley. Yes, it is that well done! It feels as if Disney Imagineering created it under Walt Disney's personal direction. You know, the days when he was so involved in making Disneyland's attractions as spectacular as could be that the cost seemed secondary. Universal Creative went retro here in their approach, and it paid off. 

You MUST see it to believe it!

Thanks to our youngest son for inviting us and allowing me to see what Universal can do when it puts its mind to it. They are a force to be reckoned with. Epic Universe ought to be the best park of the three with all the lessons they learned and stunning new successes- and well-earned respect- under their belt.

Our last full day was focused on Islands of Adventure and the first ever Wizarding World. Stay tuned...

(Photographs copyright Mark Taft.)

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