The Grandest of Canyons

How long has it been since I visited here? I don't want to even venture a guess, but to just say that life got in the way. Since the last post about my Tokyo Disney trip (which I hope to finish one day), I've lost my mom and Juneau (my husky dog)...two incredibly important parts of my life. I'll maybe write more about it, but that's for another time. 

I don't want my first post back being a downer, so what better way to return than with another trip report? My wife Sue and I were blessed to finally visit the Grand Canyon in Arizona a couple of weeks ago. GC has been a bucket list destination for me ever since I saw the diorama inside the tunnel of the Disneyland train ride (see how I was able to get a Disney park into this post...LOL) back as a child. That view of the canyon with animals, foreboding weather, and light effects mesmerized me almost as much as the dinosaur scenes. I was bummed the train was closed on my last visit due to incoming Star Wars, but a journey to the real thing was a revelation!

No disrespect to the Imagineers, but the real GC is beyond magic! You truly sense a creative and intelligent hand involved behind this magnificent vista.

We flew out of Hawaii on a Friday evening, catching the red eye which landed early morning in Las Vegas. After an obligatory stop at In-N-Out, we drove the 3 1/2 hours to the canyon. Being an island born boy, I really enjoyed the drive, soaking in the southwest scenery that seemed to pop right out of Pixar's Cars. 

The first three days were spent on the South Rim...the more popular  tourist destination thanks to the warmer climate and lower altitude. While we didn't journey into the canyon (maybe next time), we did do our fair share of hiking paths and park buses. We were blessed with an incredible sunset on our last night while at the top of Yaki Point. I had initially headed to the lookout at the top but the colors turned out pretty drab. Calling it a bust, we headed back down a bit disappointed. As we got off the bus, the sky began exploding with color and I quickly set up my camera so we could do our "selfies"...LOL!

We also visited the Desert View Watchtower designed by Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter...a major player in the architectural design of the park. It wasn't based on an actual structure, but modeled after several buildings found in that area from times past. Besides the usual visitor center, there's a small gift shop that sells some of the best coffee ice cream I've ever tasted. Definitely worth a stop if you're in this vicinity of the south rim.

From there, we drove over 200 miles to get to the North Rim.  another pleasant drive that found us alone on the road for the most part...passing more "Cars" like scenery. As we began to ascend, the climate got much cooler and wetter...with snow very evident in parts of the landscape. It took a few hours to get acclimated to the more rustic lodgings and quieter pace. Less amenities and tour options, but this area is your choice if you prefer a more laid back and less hectic pace. 

I made it a point to shoot the milky way out on Bright Angel trail the next evening. We had scoped it out earlier in the day and both Sue and I were uneasy with the sheer drops on either side of the path that provided no rail guards. However at night, with only a head lamp to light the way, I couldn't see any of the steep drops so I was fine. While sitting in the dark at 2:00 am, alone without a soul in sight, one thinks about a lot of things. My two main thoughts were "Are there any rattlesnakes?" and "Am I crazy shooting at this hour?". My wife often questions my sanity when the alarm goes off at midnight for one of these photo excursions...haha!

Earlier in the trip, our meals were mostly from general stores and snack shops due to lack of options and time. Sue came to the point where she didn't want to look at another sandwich, so the fine dining at the Grand Canyon Lodge was much welcomed! We were able to have an amazing breakfast and dinner there. I played it safe and opted for one of the best pasta dishes I've ever eaten while Sue went with the Braised Bison. She was kind enough to let me try and let me tell you...it was melt off the bone delicious! If you look closely at my breakfast order, you'll notice the plate was made of recyclable and environment friendly material.

We also did another obligatory selfie on the South Rim...so standby....here you go!

The two nights on the North Rim turned out to be a day or so too short. We really loved the cool weather and much smaller crowds. If you plan to visit GC, make sure to explore both rims!

Photographs Copyright 2019 by Len Yokoyama

Fissure 8 Lights the Milky Way

Taking a short detour from my Japan trip reports to share the above image with readers of Insights and Sounds. If you've been semi following me on this blog, you know that I love photographing the Milky Way, especially at the top of Mauna Kea Summit! At an elevation of 13,800 ft, shots of MW are as clear and crisp as you'll ever see. I can clearly see it also with the naked eye (and not some vague outline, but a very defined and detailed look).

I drove up last week attempting to photograph the MW above several of the telescopes located at the peak. Unfortunately, it was on the opposite side of the sky! A little disappointed, I nonetheless moved my camera and gear to still grab something. As I approached the edge, I noticed an orange hue rising from the horizon. As it came into full view, I realized it was the glow of lava from the newly emerged Fissure 8! If you've been following the news, you know that volcanic activity has been hot and heavy, with the lava destroying hundreds of homes in the Leilani Estates area. I had hope to shoot this event, but security was tight with fines of $5,000.00 and possible jail time being handed out to trespassers. But God, in His generosity, gave me a birds eye view of this spectacle from over 80 miles away!

As a sidenote, while the lava has touched a lot of lives and is a tragedy, 99% of the Big Island is unaffected by the lava (other than the VOG)! If you were or are planning to visit there, please do so! A lot of the small businesses are dying because of visitor cancellations. There is still so much to do and see on the Big Island..and visiting the summit is clearly one of them!

Photographs copyright 2018 by Len Yokoyama

The Milky Way Tour 2017 - Part II

Since my last post (eons ago...my apologies), my wife Sue and I (along with our two dogs - Juneau and Sitka) visited the Big Island to check up on our house and enjoy some R & R (of course, this is the one time during the year where we transport the girls with us...and that in itself is one mighty stressful experience).

I had thought of leaving the camera back on Oahu and just spending time around the house and with my family. But Milky Way season being in full swing, it was too much of a temptation for me to resist lugging the DSLR along for the ride. 

One of my goals this year was to photograph the MW at the top of Mauna Kea summit. When I finally made it last year with my trusty old 2000 Toyota 4Runner, I felt I had conquered Mount Everest. I had been there 16 years earlier, but the last attempt was met with mean headaches and acute dizziness, thanks to the thin air. At its peak, Mauna Kea rises 13,800 feet above sea level (from its base on the ocean floor, that measurement jumps to 33,000 ft). Guests are advised to spend at least 30 minutes at the Visitor Center (located at 9,200 ft) before journeying the last 4,600 feet via 4-wheel drive. When I purchased my SUV on Oahu way back at the dawn of time, I opted for 4-wheel option even though it added another $3,000 to the sticker price. Most of my friends thought it was a waste of money since I never went off road. However, in the back of my mind, I thought if I ever moved to the Big Island, I would definitely need 4-wheel capability. And while I never specifically asked the Lord for a home there, He provided one to us in His infinite love and generosity. So, making it to the top in that Toyota was a major validation for me...LOL!

The photo at the top of this post was taken at the Visitor Center as I waited out the 30 minute stop in order to acclimate to the higher altitude. The center was closed by the time I got there (1:30 am), but thankfully Porta-Potties were available. Contained behind the gated fences is the endangered Mauna Kea Silversword plant. Once plentiful on the volcanic mountain slopes, steps are now being taken to protect and preserve this endangered species. I thought the silversword only grew on Haleakala in Maui, but I learned this is a relative of that particular plant. 

After the wait period, I began the drive up the unpaved terrain to the top. I've heard the road is purposely kept inhospitable to discourage people from going up (thereby minimizing foot traffic and decreasing light pollution from car headlights). I must say it does an excellent job. Like a trooper, my 17 year old vehicle plodded through the gravel and dust, but I swear I felt bones rattling in me that I never knew existed. 

About the halfway point, there is a nice, wide area to pull off and park. One is above the clouds and the MW view is already clear and spectacular. What gives this image an added bonus is the orange glow in the distance. Some have wrongly thought it was the sun rising, but it's actually the lava glow from Kilauea Volcano some 40 miles away. The only thing missing was ice along the road, but unfortunately  (or maybe fortunately), it had stopped snowing several weeks back.

After a few miles of this treacherous path, the paved road returns leading you up to the first group of observatories. This is what I reached on my first attempt last winter. The MW was not visible at the time, so I was content shooting here.  On this attempt, I made it to the next level where you could see observatories as well as some satellite dishes. I stopped here and decided to do a few panoramas. 

I was up there for about an hour and the cold and thin air began to take its toll. MW shots require 30 second exposures, and in this type of environment, that can feel like a lifetime. I would set the shot, press the shutter release, and bend down low, gloved hands in pockets, in order to keep warm and save oxygen/energy.

To get to the top, I would have to travel another mile or so of unpaved gravel. At this point, I knew my body had enough and I needed to return to a lower, oxygen rich altitude.

I plan on heading back to the Big Island in July, so hopefully the 3rd time will be the charm in getting to the peak!

Photographs Copyright 2017 by Len Yokoyama

2017 Milky Way Tour

This time of the year marks the beginning of Milky Way season for photographers and astronomy lovers alike. Confession time, prior to delving into picture taking, I rarely looked up at the skies and couldn't tell you the Big Dipper from a hole in my shoe!

But once I started shooting sunset/sunrise landscapes, I began noticing these incredible pictures of the Milky Way on the internet. As a novice, my initial thought was these images were taken with high end telescope cameras or some such doo-hickey beyond my reach. Then one of my friends posted a MW pic taken in Hawaii with camera gear that was equivalent to what I currently use. After further research, I find out that not only is MW photos possible for most folks, but that Hawaii is one of the best places to shoot due to less light pollution and advantageous weather conditions.

The image that headlines this post was my first attempt at Makapu'u Beach last year.  I was really happy with my first attempt and it even made a blogger's post, "80 Things to Do On Oahu-the Bucket List" at #59 (https://www.journeyera.com/best-things-to-do-on-oahu/). I did a few more, but not as much as I would have liked. I tried my hand at photographing it above the lava on the Big Island, but it proved less than spectacular (although I'm going back to give it another try).

I promised myself I would go full speed this year,  marketing my determination as the "Milky Way Tour" for 2017! Much like a touring artist, I envisioned specific dates and locations to mark each shooting event.  

On March 25, I headed out to Kualoa Beach Park to photograph MW over Mokoli'i Island or as locals lovingly refer to as "Chinaman's Hat". I notice the Mokoli'i name used more often nowadays, quite possibly due to political correctness. While "chinaman" does have a derogatory connotation, it was never used in that manner in describing the island. Hawaii's melting pot culture really allowed races to experience and appreciate the uniqueness and difference that each nationality brought to the table. This familiarity also fostered friendly teasing  about these differences without taking offense. Thus Chinaman's Hat remains an affectionate and nostalgic term for many of the locals. What I thought was going to be a solo endeavor ended up a group affair with me encountering a dozen or so fellow photographers with the same idea...hah!

After grabbing four hours of sleep, followed by a full day of chores and errands, I somehow managed to pull myself out of bed and head out to Lanai Lookout at 3:00 am the next morning. The plan was to meet fellow shooters there in the parking lot, but the area was so dark that I did not see one single person. I knew they were out there from the various camera lights shining in the dark. Clouds, which are a photog's best friend at sunrise/sunset, is a major boon (along with a full moon) when shooting MW. Undaunted, I headed out to the parking lot and hoped for spots of clear skies. Prior to heading down the cliff, I spotted these two warning signs and knew immediately it might make for cool foreground imagery. The signs are actually white and yellow, but in a stroke of sheer luck, a passing car was slowing down and flashing his brake. The lights were enough to give the signs a nice reddish glow, giving the image a more ominous feel as the Milky Way stretches out into the distance.  

Because it was a three day weekend, I journeyed out to Hawaii Kai on Monday to shoot a carnival from a distance. The destination was Kuliouou Park, a duck sanctuary, that provides a variety of beach textures due to low tides (my wife and I took our dogs out there on Saturday where they were literally running and playing a good distance out from shore). While there, I saw the carnival from afar and knew it might make a pretty cool shot at sunset. And man, was the sunset amazing on Monday, only in the opposite direction...LOL! I kept moving my camera back and forth like a loony Daffy Duck, trying to capture the setting sun in the west, and the fading lights over the carnival in the east. What I ended up doing is replacing the sky over the carnival with a MW composite shot later in the evening. I must have shot nearly five hundred images over those three days and walked away with four good shots. But for me, it's the final product that matters, so I'm pretty happy.

Heading out to the Big Island this weekend for a long overdue vacation. I'm bringing my gear, so I don't expect it will be fully restful. Let the 2017 Milky Way Tour continue!

 (Photographs copyright 2017 by Len Yokoyama. All rights reserved)