This Real Life Indiana Jones Solved One of History's Greatest Mysteries!

Add this to the "When Real Life is More Fascinating Than Fiction" files: Imagine being a female archeologist in the mid-1900s when men ruled the profession. Then consider what it felt like to be hired by arguably the most powerful government on earth, The Vatican. Add to this the more than enormous task of being challenged to find and authenticate the bones of Peter, one of the most famous disciples of Jesus and Rome's first pope. This is the true story of a small, brilliant Italian Margherita Guarducci. The fictitious archeologist Indiana Jones has absolutely nothing on this woman!

The woman's work and her fierce determination to discover the truth at any cost lie in the heart of the account The Fisherman's Tomb by lawyer and author John O'Neill. Admittedly, Ms. Guarducci comes in rather late in the story, but she plays a rather important part. 

Texas oilman George Strake funded the entire secret excavation. He was contacted by the head of the Roman Catholic Church at the time, Pope Paul VI and asked to fund it in secret, which the devout Texas agreed to do- for decades. With the help of Father Walter Carroll, a young priest, the trio builds at team who begins searching for Peter's remains.

This true story is told against a backdrop of World Wars I and II. The entire saga is filled with intrigue, politics, almost miraculous events and more as friends and enemies within the Vatican itself battle for the credit of what is- or isn't- discovered.

Margherita Guarducci's book, The Tomb of St. Peter, tells her story and covers her findings in detail. (I have not read it.) O'Neill's book reads like the suspense novel it could be, except for the truth of it all.

If you've read my trip report on Rome (here), you'll know these books lead to a magnificent journey available to any traveler who puts in the effort, The Scavi Tour. You'll go under St. Peter's Basilica, bypassing the huge lines, joining a small group of ten to twenty people to the Necropolis. A fully underground Roman street and cemetery filled with ancient buildings, tombs, and one of Christendom's most sought after discoveries.  

After reading the book and seeing it all for myself when at the Vatican, the only question I have is, "Why isn't this a movie?" 

The Best of Rome- - and The Coolest Thing I've Ever Done

Day One of our trip to Rome, Amalfi Coast, and Paris was just about as good as it could be! We were excited for the next few days, but one small tour ended up being the best travel experience we've ever had. And I gotta say, because of God's goodness, the generosity of friends and family, and my part time gig as a tour guide, we've been blessed to do many, many amazing things. But this topped them all.

The full photo from above zoomed out to show just how huge this area is.

After meeting our friends for a delicious and leisurely breakfast in our hotel- Lavazza Coffee with hot milk is just wonderful- we headed off for our tour of the Vatican. 

Neither couple had been to Rome, but our friends did as much research as we did to prepare. Our friend the Professor happily stumbled upon something that very few folks know of or even care about: The Scavi Tour.

Just what exactly is this? A very limited tour where they receive only 250 people per day, approximately 12 people per group. You must be 15 years old, and the tours run only Monday through Friday and with shortened hours on Saturday. In order to qualify, you must first email them a passport scan. You'll go through an extensive security check before you are approved. Then you will know if you have been approved and for what date and time. 

But what exactly is this tour?

The Professor asks questions of the Swiss Guard officers at the entrance.

Everyone who goes to Rome for the first time must go to all the main landmarks, including Vatican City's magnificent St. Peter's Basilica. Just as they should. This tour, the Scavi Tour, goes under the basilica. What's there? An area called the Necropolis and the home to the tomb of St. Peter- which is directly below the grand dome everyone sees. The hour and a half excursion takes travelers somewhere in the neighborhood of 25 ft. below ground exploring what was once an above ground cemetery. This includes walking around ancient streets and houses now buried centuries later.  

Enter the tour here.

We arranged our entire tour of the our trip's tourist attractions to accommodate this particular tour. And we would advise anyone going to Rome to do the same. For all four of us, it was easily the highlight of our entire time in the region. 

Make sure you bring your passport with you. You will not be allowed in without it.

To find the tour entrance, walk toward the Dome, and then walk past it on the left side. Look for the Swiss Guard on the left. The uniforms make them easy to find. They will graciously point you to the Passport Control/Security entrance nearby. We tried talking to the local police to ask, but they appeared unable to direct us to the right location.

After going through security and a passport check (Vatican City is its own country. after all), we were escorted past the Swiss Guard to the tour office. Here, we were screened once more before being let into a walled off area. Dignitaries, some walked and some in vehicles, (and there were many) passed by us on their way to meetings and such.

The lobby area before descending below ground.

No photos allowed beyond this point.

Right on time, our tour guide came out to greet us. She was a local Italian woman with a doctorate in Christian Anthropology. Not only was she very knowledgeable, she was very likable, and her English was excellent. No question was too small or unimportant. After counting heads, the descent downstairs began. The halls became slimmer and slimmer as the lights got dimmer and the area colder.

The Necropolis. This is the official Scavi photo from their website.

I'll admit it took some time to get used to the chilly temperature below ground, the narrow and  dark precarious paths, and especially the thick security walls that closed behind us after entering each area. This is  definitely not for the claustrophobic! One woman in our group couldn't handle it all, and after entering the first darkened room way below the surface, she had to leave. Our very kind and understanding guide excused herself and accompanied the nervous woman back to the main lobby upstairs. We quietly waited for her to return. It was a bit eerie. 

One more official photo.

We had taken the underground aqueduct tour in Istanbul a year earlier. That certainly was incredible, but we were even more awestruck by this experience, the history, and stories told. The Necropolis (Greek for "City of the Dead") contains the Tomb of St. Peter, but that is to be seen toward the end. Before that, you walk among the pagan burial grounds and see a side of the era's life from a new perspective. (For the record, this is not like the famous catacombs of Paris, so you won't be viewing thousands of skulls.) 

The Professor found this photo on line after we all got home.

Based on historical data, Peter was martyred in 64 A.D. under the hand of Nero. The apostle Peter insisted he be crucified upside down, stating he was not worthy to be killed in the same manner as his Lord Jesus Christ. (Jesus himself prophesied Peter's death in the Bible's Book of John, Chapter 21.) Mourning but wise believers took Peter's body and hid it, fearing others would take it and destroy it.

For centuries, Christianity was outlawed, but that did not stop early followers of Jesus from hiding subtle references to God's Son in the paintings and other artwork as part of their families resting place. This included Peter and includes references to where he was buried in a manner that could only be described as ancient graffiti. All this is pointed out on the tour, and the guide lays it out in a very compelling manner. 

Once Emperor Constantine legalized Christianity in 313 A.D. by issuing the Edict of Milan, Peter's body was buried where it now is found. Right below the famous Basilica Dome. Once back above ground, if you look for the center metal grating at your feet, you can see the Necropolis deep below. 

St. Peter's Basilica. Just incredible.

This not-to-be-missed tour comes with a bonus: At the conclusion of the tour, you are taken upstairs to the Basilica, bypassing the lengthy lines. You can still veer off to the left side to go up into the dome itself, something we sadly forgot to do. To reach the entrance to the Basilica, you'll go through numerous hallways with the resting places of many other Popes to get there. This makes for a fascinating experience all its own.

To book Scavi Tour Tickets, go to the official site here. Don't be fooled by the numerous other companies' websites into taking a different tour.  They are more expensive- sometimes much more so- and may not include the underground experience.

Again, be sure to bring your passport with you.

I mean NO disrespect here,

but this cute photo makes me want to call them a "gaggle" of nuns 

because of their smiling faces.

What could top the Scavi Tour? Nothing actually, not even the Sistene Chapel in all its splendor couldn't match the powerful experience we had just witnessed. 

The dense crush of the crowds and the very limited time in the chapel itself made for a visit that was much different than we expected. It's loud, the poor security/guides have to yell to communicate with guests, and there's really no time to quietly enjoy the thousands of artifacts on display in the numerous hallways before hitting the chapel. 

Just unbelievable.

For all this, the payoff is worth it. The fresco by Michelangelo is just magnificent! The colors are quite rich, and it seems as if it could have been painted just a few years ago. This is due to the restoration that took place in the 1980s for several years. Contrary to what many think, the entire story of the Bible is painted on that ceiling and not just the creation. 

The Sister Chapel is surrounded by the expansive gardens.

Once we exited the Chapel, we worked our way out through a large maze of hallways that held very little signage in either Italian or any other language. We were rewarded with a nice bench and a break for a drink and a snack. The surrounding gardens are just lovely. Off in the distance is the entrance to the garages.

One of many "Pope-Mobiles" found in the garages below.

One of the most playful- if you can use that word- exhibits is found underground with very little announcement of its very existence. The carriages and cars of the Popes are housed below ground. There's no fee to enter. The plaques tell fascinating tidbits, and visitors are rewarded with a very views of everything from ancient carriages to almost James Bond type automobiles. Since few people go here, the touring is relaxed and delightfully peaceful.

Scenes from our walk back to the hotel.

Everywhere you go in Rome, history is found, and every turn of your head results in discovering beautiful architecture. We made a habit, (no pun intended), of walking into every church we found. Even the very humblest of buildings interested us with the variety of materials used. 

My more than average photo does not capture the beauty of this piece.

A full description.

We took the extra time to walk into the Cappella Della Pieta. I'm not a Catholic, but it was hard not to be moved by this sculpture. There's this feel about Rome that brings about a mix of emotions. The city seems to pulsate with youth and energy, a sense of respect for the ancient and traditional, and a combination of flighty carnality and rich spirituality. Where Paris feels both charming and glamorous, Rome has a sense of substance I've never felt anywhere else. The Eternal City indeed.

The next day would be our last full one here. The agenda held a tour of the Coliseum and Palatine Hill. There'd be a few surprises along the way before leaving the city for the towns of Amalfi. What a wonderful trip so far! Stay tuned.

(Photographs copyright Mark Taft.)

Italy Before France, Rome Before Paris

Do you daydream about your next travel adventure? I do! If you travel for work or you do it as work, deciding where you are going to go on vacation is always a challenge. Staying home is rarely an option for me. Racking up the frequent flier miles certainly helps cut the costs. Since I'm a sun person and a beach lover Hawaii is always in the running, and our many trips there attest to our love for those islands. Loving culture and history, Europe always calls me. Being a Disney park fan, the consideration of a trip to Walt Disney World definitely comes into play. 

Truth be known, I'm "Disneyed Out" as evidenced by our choice to go to Rome, the Amalfi Coast, and then onto Paris without going to the theme park I love. Yep, that's right- we skipped Disneyland Paris. And if you've never been to the City of Light, you'll need to make some tough decisions as there is so much to see and do there. But Italy before France, Rome before Paris.

 

When we were planning this trip, we decided to ask some of our closest friends to travel with us. They had never been to Europe, and we'd talked about doing that for years and years. This time, everything aligned together, so it was a go. We were all so excited to do this together- and it was the perfect choice of travel buddies for this once in a lifetime adventure.

Planning took us awhile. Just like all good trips. But since this wasn't Disney, we didn't have to deal with many advance reservations. Such a relief, honestly. Our itinerary played out with us starting in Rome, traveling by car to the Amalfi Coast, and then flying from Naples through Milan and onto Paris. 

 

Patio at the Hotel Ponte Sisto.
 

After all four of us searching for rooms- with Airbnb or a hotel- we found the perfect place in a perfect location: The Hotel Ponte Sisto, right across from the Tiber river. Centrally located to everything you'd want to see and just on the other side of the bridge, the old monastery now small hotel was just what we were looking for. Beautiful grounds, rooftop patio bar, lovely breakfast room and larger than normal guest rooms at a decent price for the luxury of it all. Our daily breakfast was wonderful- and of course, included- and we began each meal with a cup or two of Lavazza coffee with hot milk. Delicious new tradition. Rooms at the hotel are a bit of a splurge, but worth every Euro. 

Landing in Rome and getting through Customs and Passport Control was so fast and easy that it would give us extra hours on a day we had thought we'd lost to travel. The whole process took less than half an hour once we deplaned. Our luggage came quickly, although good old United Airlines ripped off my bag's handle through the metal in the center. Taxi service into the city and to our hotel was about 65 Euros- not cheap- but the 35 minute or so ride provided a nice introduction to the Eternal City.

 

One of many fountains.

After checking in, we took off for a walking tour and then a bit of a late snack. It seems everywhere you look, there are ancient structures and remnants of old columns and such. Much like Florence, traffic is thick and fast here. Be safe and stay in the designated walkways at all times. 

We explored around our hotel and then moved on deeper into the city, following the river and branching out from there for interesting spots we had to take in. A nice coffee break and a cornetto (the Italian version of a French croissant) gave us a chance to talk more about our plans for the rest of the afternoon. But we didn't really need an excuse, did we? It's vacation after all! 

Of course, the Trevi Fountain is a must and for good reason! Even in late October, the crowds are dense and it's hard to get close to the lowest level for a great photo. What a beautiful piece of art in a city where you can find it everywhere. The entire complex is larger than you think, and the amount of water pulsing creates a refreshing sound that doesn't quite drown out the crowd noice but makes for a pleasant visit. (I didn't know you could visit under the fountain- at least you can according to the Giadzy website, the home of recipes and tourist tips by celebrity chef Giada de Laurentiis.) We'd originally planned to return to this spot in the evening, but there was so much to explore in the city, it just never happened.

Since the pandemic, advance planning and reservations for a few key attractions are a must. After a bit of research, we discovered in Rome, several were necessary. One was for the Pantheon, one for the tour of the Coliseum and the Palantine Hill tour, and the others were for the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel. As we'd quickly discover, we were extremely glad we planned this out. 

 

The oculus at the Pantheon.

The Pantheon was next on our list with our reservations set for late in the afternoon. The line for folks with tickets was very long, and the square where this sits is much too small for the number of visitors that want to go in. Luckily, it was a pleasant and warm late October day. As with all the attractions in the city, you'd need more than a bit of luck to be able to get into one you did not have advance reservations for. With our reservation, it still took us about 45 minutes to get through the line.  

Originally a Roman temple for pagan gods and now a Catholic church (but seemingly most primarily a tourist hot spot), the Pantheon is an impressive structure filled with equally impressive art of all types. An audio tour is a must to understand it all, and the set of ear pieces helps push out the noise levels so you can concentrate on what you're seeing.  Even though it's an open area with an oculus (a large open hole) to the skies above, it is very noisy.

There's about 20 spots to stop and discover. Pay attention to the floor. The architectural design of the place is stunning and more advanced than you would imagine. Truly genius. (Planning note- the information for tours on line does not make it clear, but if you book an audio tour guide, you pick up your devices inside at a counter off to the left.) The wealth of history here as in all the city is overwhelming at times. So are the treasures as it seems so much is embellished with gold. We spent about an hour and a half inside. Little did we know this would be the least busy spot in all our tours of Roman attractions.

What could be more Italian than gelato? After our self-guided tour, we felt it was time for something playful and delicious. Of course, this became a regular habit! After walking anywhere from four to six miles a day, we all decided we could indulge a bit. While my wife and friends mostly had more traditional flavors, I generally opted for the weird ones. The "Blue Cheese and Pear" and "Baklava" were the two most unique. My order of these resulted in a few funny faces and sideways glances, but I was rewarded by many delicate, out of the ordinary flavors. I eventually did have a scoop of Mango and later Nutella (my favorite food ever), but my love of adventure extends to my palette as well. However, my first dinner was more traditional.

Across the Ponte Sisto bridge from our hotel of the same name, was the neighborhood of Trastevere. It would be the location for our first dinner in Rome. The area's very trendy, filled with bars, shops, and restaurants, a smattering of graffiti (unfortunately something you'll find throughout larger European cities) and lots of music. 

 

Could it get any better?

Once we got our bearings and the sunset came upon the city, we settled into a small square at an outdoor restaurant next door to a local church. Wine was a must. Although I maybe have an alcoholic drink at the most once a month and not more than one (I'm a lightweight), I did have a glass of wine with every evening meal. My order of cacio e pepe, a  tonnarelli pasta made with black pepper and pecorino romano cheese was everything you'd want. Along with great conversation, fresh warm bread, a glass of wine, a balmy Fall evening, and my wife beside me was all I could ever want. Every once in awhile, I'm very thankful to the Lord for His gifts, and I think, "Life is Good!" Yes, this was one of those moments. I love Rome!

We ended the evening with some window shopping and a leisurely walk home. All the traveling wore us out. There'd be much to do the following day, so a good night sleep was a must. 

Tomorrow would unexpectedly bring the coolest thing we've ever done in any of our travels anywhere. Little did we know!

(Photographs copyright Mark Taft.)