Trip Report September 2019: A Magic Kingdom in Transition

Is the Magic Kingdom better than Disneyland? The debate rages on, but as someone who grew up next door to "Walt's park" and has visited both for many years, after this trip and the one prior, my answer may shock some and delight others: As far as the castle parks go, each one has their own unique design, charms, and attractions. Each kingdom has their own strengths and weaknesses. Some attractions are better on one coast compared to the other, some much lesser. Ultimately, they are two different experiences tailored to and targeted for two contrasting guests. You can't escape the impact and artistry of what Walt and his first generation Imagineers accomplished in California, but you also can't discount what Roy and his team accomplished in Florida on their own.

But is the Magic Kingdom headed in a good direction? Now that is a question worth asking- and it's one with a complicated answer.

Starting the day with a little Starbucks stop.

A nice beginning for Grandma 

and a nice little steamer for the little cutie.

The Magic Kingdom was day number four on our plan. When taking younger children to Walt Disney World for the first time, the majority of trip planning experts recommend that the Magic Kingdom day comes after visits to each of the other parks. It's not a bad plan! This way, they enjoy each of the park offerings fresh without the idea that every other one will be the same style as the castle park. Here's what happened to us:

With an arrival inside the park at 8:45am, we were absolutely stunned by how empty the place was! How empty, you ask? After a quick stop for coffee and no line at all at Starbucks, we took two rides (with less than a five minute wait on each) on the Seven Dwarf's Mine Train, then used our Fast Pass for it again. Right in a row. Three rides on arguably the most popular ride in the park. Still don't believe me? It gets better.

Outside the attraction 

and the indoor standby queue. Empty.

How about not one but two rides on Big Thunder Mountain Railroad and then a ride on Peter Pan's Flight (with a less than ten minute wait) all by 10:15am. It took longer to walk to the Frontierland side of the park than it did to wait to board a pirate ship for Neverland. And a very peaceful walk it was...

Oh yeah, and I forgot to mention the little Fantasyland Sword in the Stone Ceremony. The kids didn't get picked in the morning. This photo is from later in the trip on the second day.

One my guilty pleasures.

After that flight, we took on It's a Small World (another walk on- without a request from my littlest visitor to do it again) and then split up. The older kids, their parents and I went to Space Mountain, while the littlest guest visited all four princesses in Fairytale Hall, much to her delight. The older group got on and off the mountain's rocket and back to the rest of our party in less than a half hour. 

Riding so many coasters in a row did have a big downside. That now seemed to be all the kids wanted to ride. When given the choice of a ride or show, rides won out every time. (They mostly do with me as well, but for three kids who had never been to a Disney park, they had no comparisons.) Regardless, we were blazing on the attraction completion scale. 

At this rate, to use my son-in-law's language, we were going to "finish the park" (get on all the rides) by our evening dinner reservation at Cinderella's Royal Table. (Anyone remember King Stefan's Banquet Hall? Last time my wife and I ate in the castle that is what it was called.) Since we regrouped in Fantasyland, we decided to stop for a cinnamon roll and a Le Fou's Brew. Both were excellent and well priced using our snack credits. There was only one other family in the tavern. Never did see Gaston, however. That's two trips now. Maybe one day.

As we sat there and planned what was next, it was very strange for me to realize how empty the park still was and how many less attractions there were here than in California. However, that gave us all reason to slow down and take in the scenery. Although there's less significant attractions, this Kingdom is full of places to explore and scenery to take in that you just won't find in the original park.  

Now it's time to say goodbye...

This approach also gave me time to visit an old favorite: Country Bear Jamboree. As much as I enjoy the old bears, I must say Disney management has left it in such a truncated and depressing state that it is time to go. Must be their new strategy: Make the cuts, ignore the maintenance, and then mine the guest surveys until the suits can show the visitors no longer want it and enjoy it. There's no doubt in my mind that Tokyo will soon be the only place to see the bear show. After the Magic Kingdom's 50th anniversary is my bet.

Going, going, almost gone.

Only one theater was running (the other looked permanently closed off), some lesser known songs and now politically incorrect dialogue were cut, replacement fur looked awful, and the sound quality was lacking. The overall show appearance and maintenance was shoddy. Imagineer Marc Davis and his team would be saddened and embarrassed. Walt Disney himself would be angry. What a shame and what an unwise approach to park management!

Perhaps my favorite land in the Florida Kingdom.

This would be a good place to answer the question, "Is the Magic Kingdom headed in a good direction?" My answer: Yes and no. 

Throughout the parks, food quality was consistently excellent. Not just good or acceptable but excellent. From snack locations to Cindy's dinner meet and greet, I can't remember when the Magic Kingdom had such great choices on the menu, all well prepared and with wonderful service. Very, very impressive. (That said, Be Our Guest at lunchtime is a mixed bag in service- if you're doing both castles for a meal, do this one before Cinderella's castle.) 

The Columbia Harbour House remains an excellent choice for those of us who love Liberty Tree Tavern but do not always want to pay the price to eat there. The waffles at Sleepy Hallow - yum! If you're looking for the best value for your money, they are only a snack credit on the Dining Plan. All said, Liberty Square is the place to go for the most variety and bang for your buck when you're in the Kingdom.

A delightful Cinderella.

Dinner with a view only Disney could provide!

On the Disney Dining Plan, it took two table service credits to eat in the castle- and it was worth it on every level. Probably our favorite meal of the week. Beginning with a photo opportunity downstairs with the namesake of the castle, everything was just wonderful. The children were just perfect ladies and gentlemen, just as they were at every waitress service restaurant we ate at. I was so proud of them! 

This is impressive! If you're going to eat in the castle,

know you can skip the Norway one in Epcot without missing anything.

Our staff was attentive but not intrusive. The drinks and first courses were excellent, the steak perfectly cooked, and the desserts heavenly. We were probably seated for 15 minutes before the princesses were introduced and the fireworks started. What an incredible way to see the show! (In a sign of the times, a guest offered to pay the staff for a window seat. He was told $45 would secure the seating of his choice. These days at Disney, you can pay to get what you want if you press hard and long enough.)

In contrast to dining, shopping options at the parks continues to disappoint me. The same merchandise is everywhere, and it is demotivating to spend a dime. I did not purchase a single souvenir for myself from any of the parks- not even my beloved Epcot. Not a solitary item from any shop or stand, and I used to spend well over one hundred dollars each trip. 

I would like to eat at the Crystal Palace again

without having to pay the price of a character meal!

As we spent two days, one and a half actually, in the flagship Disney park in Florida, I will say that some less than impressive occurrences make me doubt its future to be as bright as it once was.

Let's begin with the elephant in the Kingdom, the Tron building. Look, I can't wait to ride the thing! But the location is one which will ruin the beautiful and iconic placement of Space Mountain in the park's skyline from both inside and outside the park. Much like the disastrous Guardians of the Galaxy ride building in Epcot, Tron's big square box shows a lack of care by the suits in its placement and design. There's no other way to say it. Take a look at the photo below. You won't get this view for long. 

What is built after this attraction will tell theme park fans the direction this place is headed.

Soon to be overshadowed by the big box of Tron.

Attraction upkeep and maintenance is next on my list. There were so many broken effects on Big Thunder! The sound quality was terrible on Splash Mountain and It's A Small World. Peter Pan needs an overhaul to bring it into the 21st Century. For such a beloved ride, the version in Florida is easily the lowest quality of them all. 

The only attraction in the Kingdom that seems better than its Anaheim cousin is the Haunted Mansion. The Jungle Cruise stands about even in the competition, but the groundbreaking Pirates of the Caribbean shown here makes me wish the suits would have stuck to their guns and instead given us Western River Expedition. After having just ridden these rides this summer in the original kingdom, Florida has certainly received the cliff notes edition of this classic. 

May I balance out this negativity just a bit to tell you that this park's Tomorrowland remains much more consistent than what's found in California? Just the Peoplemover alone brings it up a step! What a joy to ride this! It's certainly something I do not tire of.

Liberty Square continues in the great tradition of Disneyland's lovely New Orleans Square yet with a style and a feel all its own. However, The Muppets Present… Great Moments in American History- yawn. Not only is the show out of place, it is boring. Bring it with a different story to Disney's Hollywood Studios where it belongs. There's enough characters in The Hall of Presidents without adding fuzzy ones to this elegant section of the park.

The Swiss Family Treehouse is a favorite!

What is the future of this park? Have the suits and Imagineers forgotten its roots and what makes it special and different from the other kingdoms? Is it now just a "greatest hits" version from other castle parks all over the world? I hope not.

Is the soul of the park in danger of being lost? Yes. The Iger / Chapek leadership model seems to prove that they have forgotten what makes this park great. When they lose sight of the creator who designed it for excellence, made it work so well, and yet begin wandering from that purpose and model, things go wrong, leaving the place to be an empty shell of what it was designed for. (Wow! There's a spiritual analogy in there!)

Perhaps the growing hoards of Florida annual pass holders will stand up and fight for their history. It works well in California!

He could do it!

Almost midnight in Tomorrowland.

Boy, this park is beautiful after dark!

Our second day in the Magic Kingdom ended fairly early due to Mickey's Halloween Party. But we were ready. Between both visits, we had seen many attractions several times, and the only ones we did not visit were The Hall of Presidents, Enchanted Tiki Room,  and Tom Sawyer Island. Besides, the kids wanted to go back to Disney's Hollywood Studios, which by now it was clear it was their preferred park. 

I guess that will be my next choice for this trip report! Thanks for reading thus far. Lots more stories to tell.

(Photographs copyright Mark Taft.)