Disney World After A Decade Away: Day Four - Magic Kingdom

As a Disney theme park fan, if you don't have a soft spot in your heart for Disneyland and/or the Magic Kingdom, I'd have to doubt if you have a heart at all! Here was our first big day at the core of Walt Disney World, and all six of us were thrilled to be here. (Just to recap, the group of the "six of us" is made up of my wife and I, our youngest daughter and her husband, and their two kids ages 6 and 4. We've already had one day at Animal Kingdom and two days at Epcot.) This post will be the longest trip report of the whole vacation for reasons that will become obvious by the end.

Coming to the Magic Kingdom via bus was not the most magical of ways to arrive, but it was the fastest. In the old days, taking the boats across the lagoon or the monorail from the Transportation and Ticket Center signaled I was not at Disneyland. 

As Walt Disney himself said about Florida, they had, "The blessing of size" there. It is clearly evident. This was well used in the early years. After quite a distance of road to be traveled, day guests finally arrived at Walt Disney World after seeing nothing but trees. It's a very impressive "WOW!" moment to see Cinderella Castle from across the lagoon. Regardless of how you travelled to get to the entrance of the park, land use and transportation was used to build anticipation. In 2018, the trip to the front of the Main Street Railroad Station wasn't nearly as dramatic, but for us, that didn't mean we weren't just as excited to be there.

Walking under the station evokes memories

and anticipates new ones!

Walking through the tunnels under the station, I was just as much impacted by the view of the castle as I am every time I do the same at Disneyland. The Anaheim park will always be my "home" park, but I have just as much a sense of coming home in Florida. How can this be? Easy. I was just a kid when I first visited Disneyland. As a man with his own wife and family, Walt Disney World is a very special place with all its wonderful memories from our visits. Now as a grandfather, it takes on even more special meaning which will never be replaced. May be hard to believe, but trust me, it is 100% the truth. Due to that fact, if for no other reason, I can't wait for my next trip to the Florida swamplands. OK, onto the trip report itself.

The Crystal Palace is one of my favorite Walt Disney World landmarks.

Holding an early morning Splash Mountain Fast Pass meant we had to depart Saratoga Springs very early in the day. Once we made it through the turnstiles, I walked in wide eyed wonder as we traveled down Main Street. The sense of anticipation was high and so were the wide smiles on everyone's face as we got our first glimpse of the castle. I looked around at the Plaza. Yes, many trees are gone, and I missed the lushness, but I do understand why the suits cleared the way for more fireworks viewing areas. AstroTurf aside, they really did a pretty nice job of it. Such is the price paid for astronomical growth in visitor numbers almost 50 years later and for under building the next three parks on the property.

Turning left toward Adventureland, I just had to stop and photograph the gorgeous Crystal Palace. Used to eat there, but now, it's a place for an overpriced character meal. Elegantly situated alongside the (unused) waterway. Once home of the beautiful Plaza Swan Boats, it's a stunning piece of British Colonial architecture and a perfect visual segue from 1890's America to the wilds of Adventureland. 

I could see Liberty Square as we walked, and I was excited to be able to go to that part of the park. As the one unique land to the Magic Kingdom, walking through it always reminded me of how proud Walt Disney was of our country. This seems something that is sorely lost these days as we angrily argue and debate each other instead of working together.

Fear...

... turns to delight!

As we entered the jungle, we turned into the arcade that led us to Frontierland. We made such good time that we still had an opportunity to jump in line for Big Thunder Mountain Railroad, a family favorite. It was my sweet little granddaughter's first ride, and you can tell by the look on her face that she had some apprehension. Rest assured, she ended up loving it, easily going on it the next day! 

My grandson, older and taller than his sister, had already ventured on the "Wildest Ride in the Wilderness" two years earlier, and he couldn't wait to get on it again. You could see the sense of pride he had while encouraging his sister as well as his steady calmness about getting on that train once more.

LOVE Big Thunder Mountain Railroad!

Speaking of pride, we just happened to be at this park during Disney's unofficial annual Gay Days. Guests participating in the event were supposedly marked by wearing red shirts. Some observations: First, all the participants were very well behaved. Secondly, at least this year, they were small in number. Very small. It continues to amaze me how such a tiny group of people could carry such heavy weight and influence in our country. Make of that what you will, but it is a statement to the power of democracy and to the power of the press.

This thrill ride has it all.

Great story, wonderful music, 

and it's long enough to really get immersed in it.

After Big Thunder, we were ready to enjoy Splash Mountain and our ability to bypass the standby line. In minutes, we were aboard. I was surprised how humid it already was so early in the morning! The blast of the cool air conditioning as we entered one of the caves in the queue was refreshing and sorely needed. 

The blessing of size. 

Land as far as the eye can see!

While Big Thunder seemed flawless in its upkeep, this was not the case with the Magic Kingdom's watery attraction. Some of the Audio-Animatronics needed work, paint in various areas was faded or even chipped, and the sound quality seemed muddled (especially when I compared it to what I found at the attraction a little more than a month later at Disneyland). That said, it remains a family favorite. It's still great fun! And who can beat the view from the top of Chickapin Hill? 

Please Disney, do not "correct" any political incorrectness due to the source material from which this attraction was born. Sometimes it's better to leave things alone.

This jungle is LUSH!

Our next Fast Pass was for Enchanted Tales with Belle, but we had just enough time to grab a coffee and take a short wait in line for the Jungle Cruise. Gotta love that Touring Plans app! But I don't love how wait times propel you to jump from one attraction to another at the expense of soaking in all the details and atmosphere a particular land has to offer. When we tour alone, a blend of wandering and scheduling will serve us better next trip, but for now, it's all about the rides.

Lost family and missed opportunity.

Perfect example: After our cruise, we had to walk past the Swiss Family Treehouse to get to Belle before our Fast Pass deadline. I love everything about the Tree House, and I thought we'd always have another chance to get back to it, but it never happened.  

Our cruise was highlighted by the great thick jungle the Florida weather has allowed. After almost 50 years of growth, the landscapes of this original Kingdom attraction really support the adventure, and the cruise maintains its spot as a must-do. 

It may not be as authentic or as real as Kilimanjaro Safaris at Animal Kingdom, but it's still a bit of silly fun and well worth a ride. The fact this attraction even remains as popular as ever is a testament to the abilities and craftsmanship of the original Walt Disney era Imagineers. These carefully designed experiences stand as a current reminder there are vitally important aspects to Disney theme parks far beyond the now popular and easy two-minute thrill ride. Do you think those now in charge of the parks even recognize the fact that this attraction along with Pirates of the Caribbean, It's A Small World and the Haunted Mansion are still popular for a reason? It's not just nostalgia, although I'm sure that holds true for some people. 

In my mind, the reason for their continued popularity is that these attractions are lavish in scope and scale, lengthy in presentation, have great attention to detail, and are chock full of atmosphere. These emotionally and physically take you somewhere. You're not watching a screen, you're living an adventure in full color. This is particularly true in the case of Pirates and Mansion, where guests are swept into the story, taken out of the everyday life and thrust into a world that is not duplicated in a Six Flags type park or on a computer screen. There are times the Imagineer in me gets very frustrated with the lack of care and respect for the history (and future) of the parks by those in charge of them. (Case in point is Pixar Pier- but that's a story for my post about my day at Disneyland and California Adventure.)

Charming- and thankfully, unique.

Back to Enchanted Tales with Belle. Some debate- Is it an attraction or is it a meet and greet? As an adult, I'd say it's an elaborate meet and greet, but there are enough elements of it that feel like an attraction including well done Audio-Animatronics. Waiting in a chain lined queue to meet a princess is not my idea of how to spend time. Yet, for those with small children who happen to love a particular movie, an experience like this is certainly worth the wait. My granddaughter loves Belle, and I love my granddaughter. That makes it enough of a reason to get in line. All said, I found Enchanted Tales to be sweet, charming, and memorable. 

For the record, this was our only intentional character experience. Even the kids wanted to bypass meeting characters in order to ride more rides. Smart kids! I did want to see all of New Fantasyland, however, so our visit to Belle's cottage made sense as part of the tour. Some fan appreciation here: Our Disney Belle was extremely gracious and gentle with each young visitor, even those who were not chosen to be in the play. This cast member was particularly kind and patient with my granddaughter, never forgetting how magical these moments are for the little ones. Kudos to her!

The intended audience.

Would I jump at the chance to experience a full blown, beautiful, fully realized "E Ticket" Beauty and the Beast attraction? Absolutely. Count me in- and I'm sure I'm not alone in this. But where is it?

A few of these detailed character encounter locations definitely have their place in the park. The problem is at the Magic Kingdom, they seem to have won their place at the loss of my beloved dark rides or a dazzling new adventure. Not a win. What about that blessing of size? No doubt in my mind that Fantasyland needs more. More rides, more places to sit down and eat in a covered location, and more flowers and trees. 

Will this turn into a meet and greet location later?

As beautiful as the New Fantasyland is at first glance, the truth is it falls short in design and execution in too many ways. With regards to the mini-Belle land, Gaston's Tavern is small but effectively sets the mood. The shop next door is adequate. The fountain is cute. The drawbridge to the restaurant should be the entrance to a landmark attraction as well. We did eat dinner at Be Our Guest, but I'll share my thoughts on that later.

A real bait and switch for unsuspecting tourists-

and lovers of Disney's 1989 comeback film.

I'll sidestep the order of our touring day to say The Little Mermaid's adventure is hosted in an "E Ticket" building in a prime location, with a very beautiful queue, but it delivers a less than satisfying experience. The exterior promises something memorable, but in truth, it offers up a ride that leaves you thinking "What was that?" or even worse, "Was this the best the Imagineers could do?"

Why repeat the space constricted version of the attraction at California Adventure when you could do so much more? It's truly quite disappointing, and in fact, most of our group rated Frozen Ever After a much better ride. (Not me.) If Ariel, Belle, Elsa, and the other princesses (as featured in Wreck It Ralph 2) were really honest, they'd scream "Why are the Disney theme park rides devoted to my film so lame?" Especially poor Rapunzel, whose story has been relegated to a set of restrooms! Guess hard core fans wanting more have to travel to Tokyo Disney Resort to experience what should be found at Disney's supposedly flagship resort. (Don't believe me? Look what Rapunzel is getting here, and see what Belle and Beast truly deserve here.)

It's most unfortunate that the two major redeeming factors in the stunning to look at New Fantasyland seem to be the additions that are most difficult ones for guests to experience: The Seven Dwarfs Mine Train and the Be Our Guest restaurant. The former one requires much patience if you don't have a Fast Pass, and the latter requires much money in addition to patience if you're finally able to get a reservation. And trust me here- you'd better get them on line 60 days out. 

The end result is a mixed-bag experience.

Back to the trip report. For the first time during our trip, our group had to split up for the next attraction. Space Mountain's limitations made it impossible for our sweet little girl to ride, but our grandson was finally tall enough to venture into outer space. Grandma joined her for a Mad Tea Party spin while Grandpa went with the parents and their son.

Rite of Passage.

Flight of Passage would come two days later.

He was thrilled. As for me, I was jerked around like never before. The ride is just plain rough. The only other Disney ride that comes this close to hurting the guests in this manner can be found at Disneyland, and it's the classic, Walt era, Matterhorn Bobsleds. I would not be unhappy to see Florida's epic Space Mountain and California's Swiss mountain adventure totally rebuilt with a brand new track. There's enough major rides in both parks to handle these being retooled. Especially once Tron Lightcycle Run is finally open in Florida and Star Wars: Galaxy's Edge in California. 

Have I mentioned I still love this ride?

By this point in time, it was hot. I mean hot. Not visiting in the summer for quite a few years, I was still surprised by the heat, even after several days of being there. We had some time before our early afternoon lunch at the Liberty Tree Tavern (my son-in-law's pick.) Off to It's a Small World we went.

If you bought a collectible doll when they were available, 

hold onto them. This granddaughter owns one of these.

Her Mom loved the Parisian dancers when she was little.

Despite there being more sophisticated rides built in later years, Small World holds a special place in my heart. It's gentle, very charming, and reminds me of a simpler time when we were innocent. I loved the change to the queue area, now bringing the famous clock to Florida. 

The iconic music in the attraction seemed different than on the West Coast compared to what I remembered. It wasn't nearly as pronounced. I loved spotting the differences between the two attractions. (Does anyone else geek out on stuff like that?) Of course, the kids were enjoying it all, including seeing the animated characters. I'll spare you the multitude of photos I took, as you've probably seen hundreds of them by now. 

How to break a Grandfather's heart in half.
Photo not representative.

That childhood innocence can be wrapped in an absolutely deadly question at times. Sometime along the day, I'm standing in line for a ride with my grandson, and he drops a bomb of a question, "Grandpa, when I'm an adult, will you still be alive?" For a split second, I was just numb, overwhelmed with the question as I was in the midst of having a great time with him. Tears were quickly welling up, so I decided to ask the Lord to give me wisdom as to how to respond. You see, my sweet grandson had recently lost his Great Grandfather just a few months ago, a man he knew and visited in the hospital, so I wanted to give this sensitive and kind boy a truly honest answer but one that wouldn't bring him further concern. I gently put my arm around him, composed myself, and looked him in the eyes (which about damn near killed me). "Well, when I'm 100 years old and you're an adult, I'm sure I'll be in Heaven with Jesus. The good thing is, because we both love Him and have made a decision to follow Him, one day we'll all be together in Heaven." He smiled warmly, taking it all in, melting my heart again. I just love this fine young man and would love as many years with him as possible. 

View from the (restroom) loft.

We had just a great lunch at the Tavern! In hindsight, it was really wise for us to stop regularly in the heat of the day to rest indoors, reflect on the day, and enjoy ourselves as we talk about our in park adventures. Each of us counted this meal as one that was very good and well worth the cost. If you love a good plate of fish and chips, don't overlook this Kingdom oldie but goodie.

Great signage that sets up the visitors
for a creepy and mysterious adventure.

After lunch, were decided to split up boys and girls. Just for a bit. The girls took off for Starbucks and a short shopping time, but the guys decided to head toward the realm of hitch-hiking ghosts. 

Newer additions to the attraction queue.
A mistake that minimizes the forthcoming fear factor
involved for younger guests.

This was perhaps, our one mistake of the day. I so wanted to see the Haunted Mansion in its non- Nightmare Before Christmas mode. The last several visits to California have been during the Fall, so it had been years since I've been able to experience it in its original incarnation. Why was this a mistake? Our young explorer was clearly scared, closing his eyes, and we talked him through the ride.  Even the standard explanation of "It's all make believe" didn't cut it. He understands the spiritual world is absolutely real. I'm glad it was Dad's decision, and not mine- even though I supported it. 

Meant to go in, but I totally forgot!

From a fan perspective, what did I find? The Dorian Gray portrait still worked, even if guests were escorted into the stretching room earlier than they should be, while the doors to the outside were open. That part bothers me, and it happened in California as well. It might push the crowd in, but it eliminates some of the overall experience. 

Once on the doombuggy, I was pleasantly surprised to rediscover that first three rooms of the tour did not exist on the West Coast, and they had much more detail than I expected. There's a couple of strengths to Anaheim's mansion over Orlando's, but if I had to pick, I'd say the version in Liberty Square is the stronger of the two. Chalk that up to a more menacing exterior and those extra rooms.

Yo ho! The great exterior to a truncated attraction.

Once the ladies returned from shopping on Main Street, cruising in search of Captain Jack Sparrow was the next order of the day. In sharp contrast to the previous attraction, as much as I really like the fortress set up for the ride, Florida's Pirates of the Caribbean pales in comparison to the first incarnation and even that of Disneyland Paris. Please don't misunderstand. It's a great attraction on it's own, but when making comparisons, it just doesn't hold up as well. For Disney park fans who have never visited the original Kingdom, it may well be the reason they should. 

Good "starter" coaster for the little guys. 
 Who says you can't have fun in the rain?

The Touring Plans app and the official one together pointed us to Dumbo for a quick ten minute wait. By the time we walked there, the rain was coming down and that wait dissipated to less than two minutes. The play land inside the tent was very well done, and I can imagine it to be a very useful diversion for little flyers when the crowds are thick. It was sweet and colorful and surprisingly charming.

A well-themed but out of place mini-land.

By and large, the new Storybook Circus was cute and incredibly well themed, but it just seemed strangely out of place, it's prime location creating a jarring transition between Fantasyland and Tomorrowland. I particularly liked the look and detail of the train station. Following our flight, Barnstormer was next (which I'd never ridden before) and then we discovered another surprise: a ten minute wait for the Speedway. Ten minutes! Unheard of. Just moments behind us, it seemed as if every other parent realized the line was short and jumped in. 

It'll be very interesting to see if route of the classic Tomorrowland Speedway is in fact altered in order to meet the unique design and construction needs of the upcoming Shanghai Disneyland transplant, the Tron Lightcycles Run. The acreage used for the raceway is really quite large. Unlike Disneyland's Autopia, it is not part of a complex network of attractions that would require major work to make more space available for expansion. If they had to, those creative Imagineers could come up with a way to make it work- even in Disneyland. Check out this proposed but never built attraction, the Atlantis Expedition.

Mom and Dad get a "mini-date" and ride alone.

If there was ever a classic Disneyland attraction still found in Florida that should finally return to Anaheim, it's the iconic Tomorrowland WEDway Peoplemover / Transit Authority PeopleMover. I love this ride! It's an old school favorite, full of atmosphere, refreshingly different from everything else in the Magic Kingdom, and it is just plain fun. 

Unlike at Disneyland, it's still a world on the move here.

In many ways, the Retro Disneyland Tomorrowland feel is found in Florida now. Carousel of Progress is still around, the striking Rocket/Star/Astro Jets are still circling high above the land, and the atmosphere and feel of the place is cool and clean, vintage 1967 New Tomorrowland. 

All that's missing is the classic Adventure Through Inner Space. I'd easily give up Buzz Lightyear's attraction for a trip through the Mighty Microscope on the Atommobile! The Peoplemover is as fun as I remembered it to be, and the kids loved it, and to bring back one classic attraction not powered by an animated character would be a good thing. To sum it up, Florida's Tomorrowland easily bests that of the land of the future in California. But each still have a long list of needed improvements.

The area surrounding Ariel's Undersea Adventure 

reminded me of the former 20k Leagues Under the Sea.

Coincidence or not?

Early evening was settling in, and we were getting close to the last activity of the day, our meal at Be Our Guest. With some time left for a few more attractions, we chose a handful of Fantasyland classics: a spin on the Carousel, a Mad Tea Party "competition" (ladies in one cup, gentlemen in another), and a happy journey with Winnie the Pooh- to go along with our ride with Ariel. 

The Classics are there for good reason.

I can still hear her giggle-

as Grandpa got sick to his stomach across the way.

Finally it was about time to check in for our dinner reservation. As I mentioned earlier, each of the four adults chose one restaurant as their "must dine" location. Be Our Guest was my choice, and aside from one aspect, I was not disappointed. 

A terrific way to end a terrific day.

It's with good reason that just about every review of the Magic Kingdom's beautiful New Fantasyland includes a glowing review of the park's hard to get into restaurant. Ultimately, Be Our Guest is not just a restaurant. It is also a walk through attraction and an exclusive character meet and greet. From the initial bridge at the check in desk to the farthest corner of the restaurant, detail is piled upon detail, making this eatery a necessary experience for anyone who loves the Beauty and the Beast animated film. The only piece missing was that extravagant "E Ticket" next door- with a dinner guest only line to the front of the attraction.

Of our four different adult meal choices, three were considered very good and one good. We dined in the West Wing, much to my pleasure. I wanted that location but didn't want to scare the kids, so I did not request it. We took our chances, ended up in the dark dining room, and everyone did well. Wine was an added bonus. We took time to relax and to explore each of the rooms. It was close to a two hour experience. (Had The Little Mermaid ride had this level of attention to detail, it would have resulted in an attraction the classic film deserves.)

I would easily eat there again except for the fact the new dining plan now makes it about $55 per person not including a glass of wine. I'm sorry, but there is no restaurant at any theme park worth that price. It's now an unfortunate "one and done".

Last look, last time.

As we exited the park, our timing couldn't have been worse. With the evening crowd for the fireworks, it took us awhile to get of out the Magic Kingdom, but we did have a chance to use the bypass. Thankfully, we reached our resort bus right as the last firework burst, and we were soon on our way home.

Post trip all four of us voted this first Magic Kingdom day our favorite day of the trip.  We tallied sixteen attractions in all and two (needed) sit down meals. We'd return the next day to catch some favorites and a few other attractions. For now, we needed a good night's sleep.

(Photographs copyright Mark Taft.)